Terry Theise has recently tasted a selection of wines from Walter Glatzer, an underappreciated red-wine producer from Carnuntum, suggesting that he deserves recognition among Austria’s top wine producers.
Despite the declining interest in alcohol consumption, Theise emphasizes the unique appeal of wine, proposing that many high-scoring wines lack that fundamental connection to deliciousness. This oversight contributes to the barrier newcomers face when trying to enter the wine world and has left some feeling that enjoyable flavors are at odds with sophistication.
In contrast to these high-scoring wines, Glatzer’s offerings stand out for their ability to elicit immediate satisfaction. Theise describes Glatzer’s wines as ones that can evoke joy and curiosity without over-complicating their appeal. He urges an appreciation for wines that manage to balance complexity with pure enjoyment.
The tasting reveals that while Glatzer’s white wines are commendable, his reputation is predominantly built on red wines, particularly Blaufränkisch. Despite a temptation to create more “serious” wines, Glatzer’s focus on deliciousness remains evident, leading Theise to label him a "god-of-flavor."
Here are some notable selections from Glatzer’s lineup:
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2024 Glatzer Weissburgunder (Carnuntum DAC): Displays a captivating balance of zesty and savory notes, carrying a pleasant finish that pairs well with food.
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2022 Glatzer Weissburgunder Göttlesbrunn: Offers a Burgundian profile with subtle oak influence, showcasing the wine’s ripe fruit and textured complexity.
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2024 Glatzer Grüner Veltliner (Carnuntum DAC): Features lush flavors and surprising juiciness, providing an engaging contrast to many of its peers from the vintage.
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2023 Glatzer Zweigelt (Carnuntum DAC): A quintessential representation of the varietal, it features aromas of cherries and violets, and maintains a delightful spiciness on the palate.
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2022 Glatzer St Laurent (Niederösterreich): Impressive in its depth and vibrancy, showcasing the variety’s potential in a way that captivates the drinker.
Theise’s reflections on these wines illustrate not only the quality of Glatzer’s craftsmanship but also emphasize the essential joy and deliciousness that can be found in wines, an aspect that feels missed in the broader conversation about wine today. Ultimately, Glatzer’s wines encourage wine lovers both new and veteran to appreciate flavor in a way that defies traditional scoring systems.