In his final column for The World of Fine Wine, Michel Bettane reflects on his two-decade journey with the magazine and expresses profound concerns about the future of wine, stating, "The world of wine is on the brink of the biggest struggle for its survival since the phylloxera era."
Bettane has been a voice for wine enthusiasts ever since the magazine’s inception, sharing insights from his extensive travels to vineyards around the world. He credits his entry into the wine writing world to notable figures like Hugh Johnson and Steven Spurrier, emphasizing the importance of wine education, particularly within the context of changing global standards and climate challenges.
He warns that the climate crisis, driven by human activity, poses significant threats to wine production. The unpredictability of environmental conditions makes it increasingly challenging for vineyards to maintain consistent quality. Additionally, Bettane raises alarm over the rising anti-alcohol sentiment, which threatens vineyards with potential uprooting under the guise of public health, a sentiment less prevalent in countries like Spain.
With over 80% of wine producers struggling financially amidst falling sales and increased pricing pressures, Bettane highlights a concerning trend towards a luxury market that caters primarily to the wealthy, sidelining the traditional accessibility of wine. He encourages the new generation of wine critics to advocate for the significance of vineyards, not only as agricultural enterprises but as vital cultural and economic pillars that sustain rural communities and international trade.
As he concludes, Bettane reassures his readers that even in this challenging landscape, there is still much to celebrate about wine culture. He leaves with a call to action for the younger generation to navigate and protect this endangered world, promising that despite his departure from writing, his passion for the shared enjoyment of wine remains steadfast.