Without These Walls: Deluxe Clos Champagne
During a recent Champagne tasting organized by Marina Olsson, attendees gathered in the historic Jörgen Kock’s House, located in Malmö’s oldest square. The event focused on the elusive clos, some of the Champagne region’s rarest and most celebrated wines.
The tasting, part of a series that celebrates the artistry of Champagne, featured an international group of wine enthusiasts treated to eight flights of Champagne, tasted semi-blind. Despite the familiarity with the vintages, the producers and their order remained a mystery until revealed. This structure added an element of intrigue, encouraging thoughtful evaluation.
The term clos refers to walled vineyard sites, yet the irony is that not all clos are literally walled. Some exist within urban settings or lack any formal boundaries. The INAO recognizes the term but does not enforce a strict definition or guidelines, allowing a degree of flexibility. Today, at least 45 wines are labeled as clos, indicating a trend toward single-vineyard expressions, akin to Burgundy’s traditions.
Throughout the tasting day, several flights stood out for their remarkable quality. The first two flights showcased Billecart-Salmon’s Clos St-Hilaire, with a vertical tasting across various releases. Each wine displayed a unique style and character, reflecting the nuances of their single-vineyard origins.
The tasting highlighted key producers like Pommery and their Clos Pompadour, along with Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses, both praised for their elegance and finesse. The event also featured comparisons between iconic houses like Krug and Bollinger, centering on the stylistic distinctions that make each producer unique.
A particularly memorable moment occurred with Bollinger’s Vieilles Vignes Françaises, which dazzled tasters with its complexity and remarkable depth — a fitting conclusion to an event dedicated to celebrating the clos and the craftsmanship of Champagne. The wines encapsulated a category that, while enigmatic, continues to captivate and excite wine lovers around the world.
Overall, this tasting not only celebrated the singularity of clos Champagne but also reaffirmed the artistry and passion behind these exquisite wines, ultimately highlighting their rarity and the mystery they embody in the broader world of fine wine.