Michael Schuster provides an in-depth review of the 2023 Comte Liger-Belair wine range, highlighting its quality and the unique conditions of the vintage. The 2023 season in Burgundy was marked by record warmth, yet the resultant wines display none of the expected heat. Instead, attendees noted the extraordinary balance between the bright fruit and the craftsmanship behind each bottle.
After significant vineyard expansions in 2022, Comte Liger-Belair faced no major changes this year, allowing them to hone their approach. The vineyard conditions favored a bountiful harvest, thanks to a mild July and beneficial rainfall leading up to the pick. Harvest started on September 4 and was conducted in manageable shifts to ensure optimum quality. The grapes reached a natural alcohol level of 13–13.5% ABV without requiring any chaptalization.
Schuster elaborated on Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s process of green-harvesting and carefully timed picking that culminated in wines famed for their charm. The 2023 range showcases vibrant expressions of Burgundy characterized by perfume, finesse, and length. Comparatively, the 2023 vintage produced a slightly lighter and less dense product than the preceding year’s offerings, yet both years hold the potential for early enjoyment and rewarding aging.
The tasting notes reflect on several specific wines from the range:
- 2023 Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes Monopole Blanc: A floral and peachy nose, rich and fresh with great balance and length.
- 2023 Nuits-St-Georges Aux Lavières: Noted for its layered silkiness and a beautiful cherry-based aroma with hints of earth and spice.
- 2023 Vosne-Romanée: Offers an aromatic complexity, light floral notes, and an overall joyful expression.
- 2023 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru La Croix Rameau: Recognized for its delicate balance and graceful fruit expression.
Particularly noteworthy was the 2023 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru, now lauded for its subtlety and depth compared to last year’s initial iteration. The wine delivers an exquisite balance of perfume and flavor, featuring a profound, silky finish.
The grand finale of this vintage, the 2023 La Romanée Grand Cru Monopole, promises a beautifully restrained yet complex experience, drawing comparisons to the prestigious Romanée-Conti, with its delicacy and intense flavor profile.
Overall, the 2023 Comte Liger-Belair wines reflect the ethos of their maker, encapsulating joy and happiness in each bottle, further affirming Louis-Michel’s passion for winemaking.
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