My first significant introduction to Zinfandel came through reading "Angels’ Visits" by David Darlington, which was later republished as “Zin.” This book captivated me early in my wine exploration journey, revealing how this unexpected grape variety emerged as California’s own.
Zinfandel’s history in California dates back to the 1850s during the gold rush, when winemaking spread northward from Los Angeles. A contributing factor to Zinfandel’s success is its cultivation ease as a head-trained bush vine, which did not require trellising—a scarce resource at the time. This variety also boasted higher yields, producing rich and robust wines with more color than the long-dominant Mission grape.
Prior to its Californian fame, Zinfandel had been cultivated on the U.S. East Coast for about thirty years, primarily as a table grape. The introduction of Zinfandel to California is credited to sea captain Frederick Macondray, who transported cuttings across the ocean, making what must have been a long and arduous journey. Known as Black St Peter in some circles, Zinfandel was among the first three wine grapes in California, alongside Muscat and Mission.
Today, Zinfandel remains the third most planted grape variety in California, covering around 39,000 acres, trailing only Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
For many years, Zinfandel’s origins were shrouded in mystery. In the 1960s, a UC Davis professor noted its resemblance to Primitivo and cultivated both varieties. However, it wasn’t until 2000 that genetic analysis confirmed their equivalence, tracing Primitivo’s roots back to Croatia, where it is known as Tridibra.
In the current California wine scene, Zinfandel holds a unique niche. It has a dedicated following, supported by groups like ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers), and produces many inexpensive wines that are often enjoyable. A notable innovation came from Sutter Home, which created the popular White Zinfandel—a pale pink wine made by pressing the grapes, often with added sweetness. The true appeal for wine enthusiasts, however, lies in exploring California’s old-vine Zinfandels, some dating back to the 19th century. When cultivated with care and skillfully handled in the winery, these wines exhibit a distinctive character. Unfortunately, some wineries attempt to alter old vine Zinfandel through excessive oak treatments, leading to less authentic expressions of the grape.
I recently had the opportunity to taste a range of Zinfandels at a large event organized by the California Wine Institute, held in a charming setting in rural London under the theme “Zin and Grill.” The tasting featured several stations and culminated in a dinner, allowing ample time for exploration.
The wines below are ranked by score and reveal Zinfandel as a fascinating variety. While some producers may cater to consumer demand by masking the grape’s qualities with excessive oak, true quality Zinfandel that respects its roots stands out. Given the costs associated with farming, good Zinfandel may never become a mainstream option, but unadulterated versions are sure to find an audience in the UK and beyond.
Top Scoring Zinfandels:
95 Points:
- De Loach Heritage Reserve Zinfandel 2022 – Russian River Valley, California: A blend that captures sweetly floral aromatic notes paired with elegant fruit flavors and warm spices. Excellent value at £20.
- Failla Day Zinfandel 2022 – Sonoma County, California: This wine combines juiciness with structure, showcasing fantastic depth for £26.
- Joseph Swan Cuvée Trois Zinfandel 2018 – Russian River Valley, California: Characterized by refined red fruit flavors and elegant structure, priced at £53.
- Turley Old Vines Zinfandel 2022 – California: An inviting wine with a warm fruity core, available for £40.
- Turley Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel 2021 – Paso Robles, California: Features rich fruit flavors and a bold character, selling for £55.
- Turley Uberoth Vineyard Zinfandel 2021 – Paso Robles, California: Vibrant and expressive, it offers a unique flavor profile for £70.
94 Points:
- Arnot Roberts Kirschenman Vineyard Zinfandel 2023 – Lodi, California
- Foxglove Zinfandel 2021 – Paso Robles, California
- Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel 2022 – Dry Creek Valley, California
- Limerick Lane Stomping Grounds Zinfandel 2021 – Russian River Valley, California
- Peterson Zinfandel 2019 – Dry Creek Valley, California
93 Points:
- Edmeades Zinfandel 2021 – Mendocino, California
- Flambeaux Zinfandel Flambeaux Vineyard 2019 – Dry Creek Valley, California
- Frog’s Leap Zinfandel 2021 – Napa Valley, California
- Joel Gott Zinfandel 2022 – California
- Ridge Three Valleys 2021 – Sonoma County, California
Overall, Zinfandel continues to evolve a rich legacy in California’s wine landscape, offering a delightful array of flavors and styles that appeal to both casual drinkers and serious wine aficionados alike.