The wine industry has recently welcomed a new grape variety: Sémillon Gris, a naturally occurring mutation of the Sémillon grape, officially recognized by the OIV with roots in South Africa.
Sémillon Gris is distinctively a pink-skinned variant of Sémillon, and while it has been long affiliated with South African vineyards, formal recognition brings its status to light. Noted by Andrea Mullineux from Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, Sémillon Gris has deep historical ties, dating back to South Africa’s early winemaking endeavors. The grape thrives particularly well in regions like Swartland, where the unique soil composition and climate contribute to its flourishing characteristics.
The journey towards this grape’s recognition was complex. The Mullineuxs spent over a decade advocating for its formal acknowledgment, engaging with agricultural authorities to develop processes for its certification. Cuttings from a notable 1960 vineyard underwent rigorous testing and propagation to ensure the variety’s health and authenticity.
Interestingly, the Sémillon Gris mutation occurred without human intervention, a factor that adds to its allure. Existing predominantly in South Africa, sightings of this grape in other regions like Australia and California are unconfirmed, making it unique to the Cape’s viticulture.
Andrea Mullineux’s exploration of Sémillon Gris stems from a lifelong fascination with historic grape varieties. She discovered the 1960 vineyard and aimed to create a wine from this old grape. The rich history surrounding Sémillon Gris traces back to early European settlers, and despite past phylloxera devastation that decimated vineyards, remnants of Sémillon Gris have endured within older plantings in places like Franschhoek.
Now, as the wine begins to make its mark, vintages from the Roundstone estate are garnering attention. The first tasting of wines from their Sémillon Gris mother block showcases the allure of this long-overlooked grape. It stands as a testament not only to South African winemaking heritage but to the organic evolution of grape varieties entwined with human history.
For those interested in joining this new wave of wine, numerous Sémillon Gris options are already enticing the palate and are worth seeking out.