Ca’Marcanda, the Bolgheri winery established by the renowned Piedmont producer Angelo Gaja, is celebrated as one of his most significant achievements. At 85, Gaja remains actively involved in the family business, which he has expanded for over sixty years, balancing his deep expertise with an infectious energy.
During the launch of Ca’Marcanda’s latest vintage at the Alba restaurant in London, Gaja’s son Giovanni highlighted that Ca’Marcanda is his father’s favorite project, noting it as the first wine Angelo created entirely from scratch. This venture in Bolgheri marked a turning point, as it was one of the first initiatives aimed at producing fine wines in the region, following a trail established by previous brands like Sassicaia, which had mostly catered to private consumption.
Recognizing the area’s potential, Gaja invested in Bolgheri in 1994 and founded the winery after a lengthy negotiation process which is reflected in the estate’s name, meaning "house of endless negotiations." The winery blends seamlessly into the surroundings, with most of it located underground. Gaja’s approach to winemaking emphasizes minimal intervention, allowing the terroir to shine.
The flagship wine, Camarcanda, originally a Merlot-dominant blend, has evolved over the years to feature an 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, showcasing a refined approach that includes less oak aging and increased use of whole bunch fermentation. The wines produced reflect a shift towards elegance, which Gaja attributes to adapting to the needs of the market and the challenges posed by climate change.
Both Gaja and Giovanni spoke about the impact of recent climate patterns, noting how drought conditions in 2022 were counterbalanced by subsequent rainfall, ultimately leading to high acidity in the grapes, which positively influenced the wine’s freshness and character.
The 2022 Camarcanda vintage was described as "incredibly surprising," benefiting from the challenges of extreme weather, resulting in a refined wine that exhibited freshness and elegance. Giovanni expressed satisfaction with this vintage’s ability to encapsulate the winery’s style.
The tasting included various vintages of Camarcanda, highlighting the evolution of the wine through different years, each affected by unique climate conditions and demonstrating Gaja’s philosophy of adapting to the environment while continually striving for high-quality production.
In sum, Ca’Marcanda stands as a testament to Gaja’s pioneering vision in the wine industry, blending traditional techniques with a forward-thinking approach to meet future challenges.
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