The day begins as the early light dissolves the darkness, revealing the surroundings from my bed in an off-grid wooden cabin without curtains or power. After a brief walk, I prepare coffee on a camp stove and enjoy a bath in an outdoor tub. The sound of birdsong fills the air, adding to the soothing ambiance.
Around 9 am, I set off for my first appointment with a newcomer to the region: Dancing Water, run by Kim Schofield and her husband. They purchased a 4-hectare legacy vineyard in the area, originally planted in 1981, and have made their first wines since 2019. Initially viewed as an investment, Kim has since become passionate about the project, producing five types of rosé, along with notable Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. Despite her nerves about hosting a journalist, her wines reflect the quality and promise of her endeavor.
Next, I visit Black Estate, an inspiring low-intervention winery founded by Nick and Pen, which I first encountered back in 2008. The winery has expanded to own three significant vineyards in Waipara/Omihi, all farmed biodynamically. Their wines, celebrated for a classical style, include outstanding Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Pinot Noir, with recent additions of Viognier and Pinot Gris.
I then meet Australian winemaker James Opie, who brings a hospitality background and a love for music to his natural wine project, Bryterlater. The label takes its name from a Nick Drake song, and the wines produced are exceptional, especially the Pet Nat varieties, accompanied by label designs inspired by synesthesia.
Later, I relax at the Ute bar—essentially a couch on the back of a truck—with Matt and Helen Barbour, who are beginning their own label, Fernbank. They own four hectares of vines, making impressive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay while selling most of their grapes. This label is one to keep an eye on, as they continue to develop their wine journey.
My day concludes with a visit to Masayuki Bunya, a Japanese winegrower with a small vineyard next to Black Estate. Although Masayuki has yet to release any wines, the quality of his Pinot Noir is evident. We sample his 2019, 2020, and tank samples from 2023. On the terrace, the gentle breeze complements the beautiful hillside overlooking the Omihi vines, marking a memorable finish to a rich day of wine exploration in Waipara.