During the four heatwaves that swept across Languedoc between May and August 2026, scorching days and unusually hot nights kept people indoors. The vineyards had no such refuge.
In July, I drove to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of France’s warmest appellations, expecting to find the vines struggling. Instead, they looked healthy, although the weeds had stopped growing. Jérôme Mathieu of Domaine de Saje said the heat at night was the greater concern: vines can manage daytime temperatures of 36°C, he explained, but lose their balance when nights remain at 26°C to 28°C.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is known for allowing a wide range of grapes: 13 varieties, or 18 when colour variants are counted. Growers can blend them or make wines from a single variety. In 2010, France’s appellation authority, INAO, tried to impose tighter rules, including limits on the proportions of certain grapes. Producers resisted, arguing that varieties should be planted according to the soils, terrain and water conditions of each site. INAO eventually backed down.
That freedom matters. Former appellation president Thierry Sabon of Clos du Mont-Olivet, who died in September 2026, argued that restrictive rules can push producers out of their appellations and weaken their cultural identity. He saw an appellation as “a zone artistique”—a place for interpretation and creative expression.
I wanted to explore how Châteauneuf’s traditional grapes might help producers respond to increasingly challenging summers. A tasting organised by the appellation’s growers’ association showcased wines in which indigenous varieties played a leading role. The selection included 15 whites and 28 reds, with none tasting hot or heavy.
Among the standouts were pure-variety whites: Château de Vaudieu’s 2024 Le Picardin, Domaine St Siffrein’s 2024 Le Berlou, made from Bourboulenc, and La Bastide Saint Dominique’s 2024 Chapelle, made from Clairette Rose. There were also fresh blends, including Domaine Saint Gayan’s 2023 Belle Jeanne, fermented and aged in ceramic vessels, and Domaine la Durbanne’s 2023 La Bertaude.
Grenache remains central to Châteauneuf’s reds, often producing wines of beautiful but heady character. Yet the tasting also revealed compelling examples of other varieties, including pure Syrah and Mourvèdre. Domaine Les Semelles de Vent’s 2023 Pur Mourvèdre was especially concentrated. Cinsault showed particular promise, in Famille Isabel Ferrando’s 2023 F601 and Domaine Benedetti’s 2022 Statera; Domaine Beaurenard’s fragrant, supple 2023 lieu-dit Beaurenard is 90% Cinsault.
There were impressive blends without Grenache, too: Domaine des 3 Cellier’s 2022 Etoiles Perdues and 2019 Ovni, Domaine de Saje’s 2022 Cuvée 1600, and Clos du Mont-Olivet’s exceptional 2019 Compagnons Inconnus, a wine that will not be made again.
Châteauneuf’s historic diversity may prove essential to its future: its range of grapes gives growers more ways to respond to a changing climate.
In my glass this month
Domaine Beaurenard’s Gran Partita brings together all of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s permitted varieties, grown across the appellation’s different soil types and co-fermented.
The 2017 vintage is quiet and serious on the nose, unfolding with air and time. Its complete, assured palate combines sweet fruit, hay meadow, stone, herbs and medicinal roots. Uncompromising and distinctive, it is a memorable expression of the appellation.