The Harbor House Inn sits above a cove in Elk, a small town on California’s rugged Northern Coast about three hours from San Francisco. The drive gives little hint that a luxurious inn and two-Michelin-starred restaurant await at the end of it.
There are two main routes from San Francisco. Highway 101 to Cloverdale and then Highway 128 passes through Anderson Valley, known for cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sparkling wines and Alsatian varieties. Alternatively, Highway 1 follows the coast through Bodega Bay and Jenner, taking about an hour longer but offering striking Pacific views.
A place to slow down
Built in 1916 as a showcase for local redwood, the bluff-top house reopened as The Harbor House Inn in 2018. Today, it has 10 rooms in the main building and five cottages. Some rooms feature clawfoot tubs and gas fireplaces, with ocean views; others overlook the gardens.
The appeal is the sense of retreat. Guests can walk down to the cove and private beach, relax with a drink on the deck, nap to the sound of the waves or take an easy hike at nearby Greenwood State Beach. The inn is child-free, and many guests are parents taking a few nights away.
A restaurant shaped by its surroundings
The restaurant, led by chef Matthew Kammerer, is the inn’s main draw. After spending much of his career in major cities, Kammerer came to Elk in search of what he describes as a wilder, more untamed setting. The restaurant earned its first Michelin star in 2019, a Green Star for sustainability in 2020 and a second Michelin star in 2021.
Kammerer’s approach is intimate and thoughtful, influenced by the Japanese ryokan tradition. The food and setting celebrate local materials and produce: abalone shells serve as decor and dishes, and Mendocino County ceramicists make the tableware.
The menu changes daily, guided by what is available rather than by fixed dish ideas. Coastal herbs arrive in spring, wild mushrooms in winter and seaweed from the cove in summer. Much of the produce comes from the inn’s farm, established in 2020, while fish is landed nearby.
On a late-July visit, dinner comprised nine courses, preceded by an amuse-bouche, and focused largely on vegetables and seafood. Sonoma-raised wagyu was the final savoury course. The wine pairing was excellent, though it was mostly European, with one sake—a contrast to the menu’s strong emphasis on local ingredients.
Evenings by the fire
Coastal weather can be unpredictable, but sunny days and foggy sunsets make the fire pit an inviting place to unwind after dinner. Guests can also browse books and games, including titles on cooking, foraging and farming, as well as novels set in California.
Breakfast is served in the main-house dining room, where morning light fills the space. Cottage guests can have breakfast delivered to their rooms for extra privacy. Two nights is the minimum stay, and may be just enough time to settle into the slower pace before picking up a sandwich at the Elk Store and heading home by a different route.
Rooms start at $850 per night, plus tax, with a two-night minimum. The restaurant is open Thursday to Monday. Tasting menus cost $350 for dinner and $150 for lunch per person; reservations are required. See The Harbor House Inn’s website for details.