Launched in March 2025, Zacal Mezcal describes itself as “the spirit for wine lovers.” Co-founder Andrew Maidment emphasizes that, similar to wine, a mezcal’s identity is influenced by its soil, altitude, and climate, leading to nuanced varietal expressions. However, this raises the question of whether terroir or varietal expression is more crucial for mezcal.
Esteban Morales, known for his expertise in terroir, produces different mezcals in various Mexican states yet asserts the importance of the plant itself. He notes that while mezcaleros primarily use a few varieties like espadín, there is growing interest in lesser-known types.
In Oaxaca, espadín dominates, but other varieties like Agave karwinskii, which exhibits green grass notes, and tepeztate, known for its floral yet funky notes, are gaining popularity. Morales’s Derrumbes Durango, made from Agave durangensis, combines citrus flavors with a creamy texture.
Conversely, Elia Viramontes, founder of Mezcal Júrame, insists that terroir takes precedence. He argues that even if Agave salmiana were planted in a different location, its characteristics would markedly change. The interactions between the plant and its surrounding environment ultimately shape the mezcal’s flavor.
The production process plays a key role—each plant is harvested after eight to twelve years, allowing it to cultivate its unique terroir. Maidment’s Zacal brand showcases local varieties, such as the 100% manso de Sahuayo, highlighting the deep connection among the agave, its origin, and the resulting spirit.
For those curious about tasting mezcal’s distinctive characteristics, Júrame offers an unaged mezcal that showcases its varietal and terroir traits, with a vibrant profile of jalapeño and lime.
One to try:
Júrame Joven
Price: £61.95/70cl (Master of Malt)
A bold mezcal with a punch of jalapeño and lime complemented by complex garrigue aromas. Alcohol content: 40%.