I had the opportunity to visit Montes in Chile, accompanied by Rodrigo Barral, the chief viticulturist, and Santiago Izcúe, the winemaker. The vineyard, situated in the stunning Apalta Valley, showcases a unique amphitheater-like arrangement of vines across picturesque hills.
Montes spans 120 hectares in Apalta and an additional 450 hectares in Marchigüe, which is closer to the ocean and presents a cooler growing environment. The vineyard was established in the late 1980s by Aurelio Montes and his partners and has expanded significantly over the years.
Four years ago, Aurelio requested Rodrigo to explore converting the vineyards to organic practices. However, Rodrigo felt that organic methods alone were insufficient for ensuring the vineyard’s resilience, especially given the climate fluctuations observed over recent years. A seminar on climate change and regenerative farming sparked Rodrigo’s interest in shifting the focus toward regenerative practices, which promise enhanced vineyard resilience.
Montes has adopted several innovative strategies, including a unique composting system utilizing a species of earthworms known as Eisenia fetida, along with the Biofiltro system. This system breaks down wood chips and cardboard waste while treating winery wastewater for reuse in irrigation, creating high-quality vermicast.
They also produce JADAM compost tea, a cost-effective method for cultivating microorganisms to enrich the soil. For composting, a combination of wool and grape marc is utilized along with vermicast, all carefully managed to encourage beneficial fungal growth.
Rodrigo explained their evolving cover cropping techniques, where they now view weeds as allies rather than enemies, fostering a natural balance in the vineyard. Measurements taken since the start of the new farming regime in 2023 reveal significant increases in nutrient levels within the soil, including a 31% rise in potassium and 22% in phosphorus, thereby reducing the need for additional inputs.
One major aim of regenerative agriculture is to enhance soil organic matter, which also aids in reducing atmospheric carbon dioxide. The vineyard succeeded in raising its organic material from 1.5% to 3% in just three years, effectively offsetting its carbon emissions.
The visit concluded with a tasting of their exceptional wines:
- Outer Limits Albariño 2025: A vibrant wine with crisp citrus and stone fruit notes, rated 90/100.
- Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc 2024: Features vivid citrus flavors with a chalky undertone, rated 88/100.
- Outer Limits Pinot Noir 2023: A silky, complex wine with cherry fruit and spicy nuances, rated 93/100.
- Outer Limits CGM 2024: Juicy and energetic with bright blackberry notes, rated 93/100.
- Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2015: A minty, structured wine with bright acidity, rated 93/100.
- Purple Angel by Montes Carmenère 2021: A robust wine with ripe blackcurrant and a beautiful mouthfeel, rated 94/100.
Montes’ commitment to regenerative viticulture not only enhances the quality of their wines but also contributes positively to the environment, setting a benchmark in sustainable winemaking.