Dobričić is a unique grape variety from the Croatian island of Šolta, which was nearly extinct until the early 2000s. Once upon a time, it played a significant role as one of the parent grapes of Croatia’s flagship variety, Plavac Mali. Vicko Kaštelanac, a winemaker on the island, emphasizes the grape’s intriguing qualities by referring to his wine as "black," highlighting its deep coloration and robust flavor profile.
The history of wine production on Šolta is rich. For over 300 years, Vicko’s family has cultivated grapevines after transitioning from sardine fishing to agriculture. The island is known for its white wines, with indigenous varieties like Maraština and Pošip popular among locals and tourists alike. In contrast, the red wines produced here, particularly those from Dobričić, are rare and often unfamiliar even to many Croatians.
Dobričić wines are characterized by their low sugar and acidity levels combined with high tannin, which results in a solid structure and impressive length. Unfortunately, traditional winemaking practices led to wines that were overly tannic and difficult to drink without dilution. In the past, farmers commonly mixed Dobričić with water to create a more palatable table wine, which ultimately bolstered production and local exports.
Over time, however, changing economic conditions, including industrialization and the devastation wrought by phylloxera and world wars, drastically reduced the number of Dobričić vines on the island.
Today, winemaking on Šolta has modernized, employing technology such as stainless steel tanks and temperature-controlled fermentation while still being largely artisanal. Vicko, in particular, has dedicated his efforts to reviving Dobričić, inspired by a visit from researchers who confirmed its significance. His family winery continues to produce this grape, with a focus on refining the winemaking process to unveil its hidden potential.
The current vintage of Dobričić suggests a newfound vibrancy, where the wine presents a saline freshness complemented by refined tannins. Vicko’s techniques maintain the integrity of the grape while reducing maceration days to enhance drinkability. He also creates blends featuring Dobričić alongside Tribidrag and Plavac Mali, achieving a harmonious balance of flavors.
Other local producers are rising to prominence as well, with winemakers like Bruna Balić recognizing the quality that can come from carefully chosen vineyard sites. More emphasis is being placed on organic practices and quality grape production, which yields wines that reflect both the island’s maritime climate and the terroir.
Overall, the resurgence of Dobričić is a testament to both the resilience of traditional Croatian viticulture and the potential for unique wines to gain recognition on a larger scale. As winemakers experiment with different techniques and encourage the grape’s growth, Dobričić could soon become better known beyond the shores of Šolta.