A visit to the 2025 Old Vine Conference in Napa prompted Sarah Marsh MW to delve into the complex merits and flaws of old vines. The discussions, featuring wine luminaries from ten countries, centered around the common belief that old-vine wines are inherently superior, yet Marsh expressed ambivalence towards the extreme preservation of these grapes without considering their quality in expressing terroir.
The conference, held in November 2025, provided a packed schedule filled with tastings of old-vine Zinfandel, a variety that previously underwhelmed Marsh. Old vines are generally defined differently across regions, with the Association of Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) considering vines over 50 years old as "old vines."
Scientific insights presented during the conference suggested that old vines might offer greater phenolic structure and a variety of aromatic precursors that reflect their terroir more deeply compared to young vines. Notably, the research highlighted the potential for older vines to produce wines with better stability and better quality tannins, especially in warmer months.
However, Marsh posed critical questions: at what age does a vine become "old," and is it possible that the focus on appearance and romanticism around the beauty of gnarled vines could overshadow their practical utility in viticulture? Her experiences yielded the conclusion that not all old vines yield superior wines, and in some instances, younger vines from good terroir can produce equally high quality or even better wines.
The economic implications of maintaining old vineyards were addressed, particularly in regions like Lodi, California, where the balance of sustainability, quality, and economic viability was at stake. Old-vine Zinfandel, while culturally significant, may not always command high prices compared to younger varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, raising concerns about the future of these vineyards.
Marsh noted that while old vines hold historical and genetic importance, their management can be labor-intensive and not always economically feasible. There are instances where older vineyards may need replanting or revamping due to factors such as viral infections or climatic pressures.
In discussing the broader spectrum of global viticulture, Marsh explored how old vines can contribute to the preservation of varied genetic material essential for future grape growing. Initiatives aimed at protecting old vines were highlighted, and while there are threats such as urban development and economic instability, a push towards recognizing and preserving these vineyards through certification and global standards was emphasized.
Ultimately, the 2025 Old Vine Conference proved to be a crucial platform for understanding the dichotomy of old vine preservation versus quality output, encouraging a nuanced view on the future of viticulture that honors tradition while adapting to modern demands.