Five years after lauding Cinsault as the most underrated red grape, Matt Walls revisited this versatile variety through a global blind tasting, uncovering significant advancements within the wine community. The 52 wines assessed were evaluated alongside Natalie Earl from Decanter and Henry Jeffreys, a noted author and podcaster.
Notably, a new collective of winemakers named Les Cinsónautes has emerged, dedicated to enhancing the reputation of Cinsault. This initiative, spearheaded by Guillaume Baron, aims to elevate the grape from its previous categorization as a component of low-quality blends and inexpensive rosés.
Traditionally, Cinsault was known for being over-cropped and under-appreciated, often described by the expression cinq sauts, suggesting its capacity to yield five buckets of grapes per vine. However, a shift toward sustainable practices—such as reduced yields and careful vinification—has allowed Cinsault to thrive, yielding wines with a lower alcohol content of 11.5%-13.5%.
The 2026 tasting showcased a dynamic evolution: the top 10 wines included five each from France and South Africa, with France dominating the top three slots. This year’s French offerings demonstrated a refinement and delicate character previously lacking, as noted by Earl, emphasizing the grape’s aromatic clarity and finesse.
While the South African wines lacked some of the previous year’s strength, there were still remarkable examples, particularly from Natte Valleij. The tasting also highlighted commendable wines from Chile and the USA.
Among the standout selections were:
- Domaine Allegria, Spirale, Pays d’Hérault, Languedoc, France 2024
- Mas Cal Demoura, Belle Fiolle, Vin de France, Languedoc, France 2024
- Leeu Passant, Old Vines Basson Cinsault, Wellington, South Africa 2023
- Domaine Sainte Marie de Crozes, L’Escapade, Vin de France, Languedoc, France 2024
Unanimous favorites included:
- Alain Chabanon, Cinq Saut, St Guilhem le Désert, Languedoc, France 2023
- Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Ze Cinsault, Pays Hérault, Languedoc, France 2024
Despite a recurring issue of reductive aromas from the grape, improvements were noted in this tasting cycle, often manageable with a brief decant. Cinsault’s charm lies not in bold intensity but in its bright freshness, light tannins, and purity. As Earl remarked, the wines were "incredibly drinkable," reflecting a modern palate favoring vibrancy over weight.
In this resurgence, Cinsault, formerly overshadowed, emerges as a beacon of elegance and drinkability, ready for its deserved acclaim.