In the heart of Chablis, the Hôtel de L’Étoile was a legendary destination in the early 20th century, frequented by notable figures such as Aristide Briand and King Alphonse XIII of Spain. Established in 1866, it became renowned for its exquisite dining, thanks in large part to chef Charles Bergerand. The restaurant offered memorable dishes, with jambon à la chablisienne emerging as the signature dish, depicting the rich culinary traditions of the region.
Charles, whose family had a deep culinary heritage, further enhanced the restaurant’s reputation after returning from prestigious culinary positions in Paris and Monaco. His contributions elevated the standing of Chablis wines, which featured prominently in his meals. The hotel’s establishment was equipped with modern amenities for its time, attracting a wide array of patrons who sought fine dining experiences.
Despite its former glory, the hotel eventually fell into decline after Charles’s passing in 1954. After changing hands multiple times, it was sold in November 2022 to a couple owning a local wine domaine, prompting hopes for its revival after renovations scheduled for 2023. Although those plans have not materialized yet, the allure of the Hôtel de L’Étoile endures.
The renowned dish, jambon à la chablisienne, traditionally involves cooking a whole ham in Chablis wine with aromatic seasonings. The reduced poaching liquid serves as the basis for a rich, creamy sauce featuring shallots and butter, poured over thick slices of the ham. Over time, variations of the dish have emerged, with many opting for pre-sliced ham instead of whole pieces, yet the essence of the recipe remains a Burgundian staple.
For those looking to pair wine with jambon à la chablisienne, Chablis itself is a prime choice, particularly a premier cru which complements the dish’s complex flavors. Other good alternatives include Italian Soave Classico and Austrian Grüner Veltliner, as well as certain red wines like Pinot Noir and Grenache from regions including Central Otago and Rasteau. Each of these wines brings its own character to the dish, enhancing the dining experience with their balance of flavors.
The enduring legacy of the Hôtel de L’Étoile and its iconic dish continues to inspire culinary enthusiasts, celebrating the rich history and gastronomic culture of Chablis.