In August 2019, I had the opportunity to visit Abe Schoener as he embarked on his venture with the Los Angeles River Wine Company. At that time, he was working from a large facility during harvest season, which was quieter than anticipated due to a lack of grape deliveries. Fast forward to February 2025, and I found myself back in Los Angeles with Nelson Pari. We arranged to visit Abe’s new, more compact facility, which he relocated to in 2022 and is now bustling with wine activity.
Abe’s initial wine project, Scholium, has resurfaced after a pandemic-induced hiatus. Although he lost many grape contracts during this period, he remains active in another urban wine project in Brooklyn, called Red Hook, and collaborates with Raj Parr on a series called Scythians.
The focus at the Los Angeles River Wine Company is on producing wines from Southern California vineyards, particularly in regions like Cucamonga and Temecula. Currently, the facility is divided into one-third Scholium and two-thirds Los Angeles River wines, projected to shift to an even fifty-fifty split in the next vintage. Grape sourcing comprises roughly two-thirds Southern California and one-third Northern California, with plans for a more balanced ratio for the 2025 vintage. The production is limited to 1300 cases, with a cap at 1500 cases once fully operational.
During my visit, I spoke with Abe, assistant winemaker Kaeley Weinberger, and cellar master Matt Beck. Most of their wines are small-batch, with the largest cuvée only reaching 1700 bottles. Abe shared his thoughts on the current state of the wine industry, expressing that he favors crafting a smaller volume of premium wines rather than producing larger quantities of lower-priced options, given the turmoil in the market.
Abe emphasized the importance of the Lone Wolf vineyard, which they acquired in 2019. This historical site, planted in 1896 and abandoned in the 1960s, has been a learning experience for the team, especially regarding pruning techniques and dealing with fluctuating yields caused by drought.
Another key vineyard, Lopez in Cucamonga, is maintained by the Galleano family and boasts sprawling, untrained Zinfandel vines, with recent discoveries of Palomino vines in previously neglected sections.
In terms of winemaking practices, Abe and his team have adapted their methods. Following insights from Chiara Pepe during her visit in 2023, they have incorporated foot treading for white wines and adjusted their juice extraction techniques. The cellar’s warm conditions have introduced challenges, leading them to implement some sulfiting practices—an adjustment from their previous no-added-sulfites approach to ensure the quality of their wines.
The Wines
Los Angeles River Wine Company Lopez Rosé 2024 Cucamonga, California
- 12.5% alcohol
- A complex, juicy Zinfandel rosé with a sweet fruit core, warm spice, and finesse.
- Rating: 94/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Maglite Blanc 2024 Cucamonga, California
- An intriguing blend from a century-old vineyard, displaying a textured, rich profile with energetic notes.
- Rating: 93/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Palomino 2024 Cucamonga, California
- A challenging vintage with saline and spicy characteristics, showcasing brightness despite a high pH.
- Rating: 95/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Lone Wolf Blanc 2024 Temecula, California
- Exhibiting complexity with notes of fennel, ripe apples, and a lively finish.
- Rating: 94/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Lone Wolf Red 2024 Temecula, California
- A pale red with surprising tannic structure, highlighting floral fruit notes and a controlled volatility.
- Rating: 94/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Lopez Zinfandel 2024 Cucamonga, California
- A balanced wine offering sweet black fruit complexity with herbal notes and sweet acidity.
- Rating: 93/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Chiara Palomino 2023 Cucamonga, California
- A unique wine perfumed with citrus and stone elements, delicately structured.
- Rating: 94/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Lone Wolf Blanc Munoa Ranch 2023 Temecula, California
- A vibrant and mineral-driven wine with fresh citrus and high acidity.
- Rating: 95/100
Los Angeles River Wine Company Lone Wolf Red Muona Ranch 2020 Temecula, California
- This mature vintage presents a beautiful balance of spicy and fruity notes, with a soft yet grippy profile.
- Rating: 95/100
Additionally, I sampled two wines crafted by Kaeley Weinberger, which are anticipated to gain recognition soon.
Kaeyley Chenin Blanc 2024 Sonoma, California
- Textured and complex, showcasing pear and citrus notes set against a chalky backdrop.
- Rating: 93/100
Kaeyley Coombsville Merlot 2024 Napa, California
- The inaugural destemmed red from the winery, highlighting purity and energy with a fine, raspberry core.
- Rating: 94/100
For more insights, revisit my initial visit to the Los Angeles River Wine Company in 2019.