In a reflective piece first published in WFW55 back in 2017, Andrew Jefford recounts his evolving relationship with English sparkling wine, notably inspired by the Wiston Estate 2010 Blanc de Blancs. He emphasizes the importance of moments and details in life, drawing parallels with nature’s subtle changes. Jefford recalls his first visit to an English vineyard nearly three decades ago, highlighting the challenging beginnings of UK viticulture characterized by uncertainty and skepticism towards its wines.
In the early days, UK winemaking was deemed a heroic eccentricity, relying on passionate practitioners who braved unreliable weather conditions. Many expected that English wines could never achieve the same status as their counterparts from warmer regions. However, pioneers like Stuart and Sandy Moss played a critical role by planting dedicated champagne varieties in Sussex in 1988.
During one winter visit to Nyetimber, Jefford witnessed firsthand the labor and devotion put into producing these wines, as the Mosses meticulously labeled their bottles. The estate later transitioned under new ownership, and Jefford continued to follow its progress, noting a shift in the industry, particularly after 2008. The past decade has seen a significant increase in vineyard plantings, bolstered by endorsements from major Champagne houses like Taittinger and Pommery.
Yet, the path hasn’t been straightforward. The unpredictability of climate change poses continuous challenges, exemplified by the harsh weather of the summer in 2012. Despite these adversities, the quality of English sparkling wine has improved, with Jefford describing Dermot Sugrue’s 2011 Sugrue Pierre as both masterful and patient, indicating a complexity that requires time to unfold.
There are standout examples that defy early doubts, such as the pure Chardonnay from Sugrue, showcasing the terroir’s potential and a newfound finesse in English winemaking. Jefford reflects on the swift changes within the industry, hinting that the days of seeing grass in a vineyard-laden car might soon be behind them, as English sparkling wine continues on its promising trajectory.