Umathum is located in Austria’s Burgenland region, specifically on the east side of Lake Neusiedlersee, and has additional vineyard sites on nearby hills. Approximately 20 years ago, they expanded their vineyard holdings by acquiring properties on Leithaberg from a count whose family has been farming there since 1214. The estate spans 30 hectares, with 85% of the vineyards planted with local varietals such as Zweigelt, St. Laurent, and Blaufränkisch.
The Umathum family has a long history in viticulture, initially farming a mixed operation and selling grapes to cooperatives until the late 1970s. In 1985, at the age of 25, Josef Umathum took the helm, shifting the focus solely to wine production. Their farming practices are biodynamic, although they do not seek certification.
Winemaking at Umathum utilizes large oak casks, with Josef boasting about having 70 casks, sufficient for processing 1.5 harvests. The investment in large-format oak began in the late 1980s and early 1990s. He has also started working with Hárslevelű, locally referred to as Lindenblätrigger, highlighting its historical significance and potential for the region’s future.
The Wines
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Umathum Welschriesling 2023: Bright and supple, this wine offers a fine balance of citrus fruit and floral notes, finishing with a slight saltiness. Rating: 93/100.
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Umathum Königlicher Wein Lindenblättriger 2021: This Hárslevelű is bright, pure, and crisp, exhibiting mineral characteristics and a precise flavor profile. Rating: 94/100.
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Umathum Grauburgunder 2022: A Middle Ages variety thriving in gravelly, sandy soils, made in large old casks. Rich and textural with hints of rose petals, this wine finishes with a spicy note. Rating: 93/100.
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Umathum Rosa Rosé 2023: A blend of Zweigelt, Sankt Laurent, and Blaufränkisch. This rosé is elegant, with lovely cherry and raspberry flavors, and a subtle creamy edge. Rating: 92/100.
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Umathum PIRO 2022: Composed of six different resistant varieties, this wine is juicy, fresh, and textural with dark fruit notes. Rating: 90/100.
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Umathum Frauenkirchner Zweigelt 2022: Aged in large oak, this wine offers freshness and depth, showcasing rich berry flavors with a bold but balanced profile. Rating: 92/100.
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Umathum Sankt Laurent 2022: Displaying fine expressions and hints of wildness, this wine features notes of sour cherry and spice. Rating: 93/100.
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Umathum Blaufränkisch 2021: With origins in schist soils, this wine is fine and expressive, featuring savory and mineral elements along with good acidity. Rating: 94/100.
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Umathum Unter den Terassen Pinot Noir 2021: Cold macerated with whole bunches, this Pinot Noir is elegant, showcasing red cherry flavors in a mellow finish. Rating: 93/100.
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Umathum Kirschgarten Blaufränkisch 2017: This wine emphasizes texture and minerality, showcasing layers of sour cherries and raspberries, evolving beautifully. Rating: 94/100.
For more information, visit Umathum’s official website.