Elaine Chukan Brown’s recently published book, The Wines of California, presents a new perspective on California’s extensive vinous history. In an interview with Decanter’s Ana Carolina Quintela, the author shared insights about the book’s inspiration, its unique focus, and the evolution of the California wine industry.
Born in a Native Alaskan fishing village, Chukan Brown, a prominent writer, speaker, and critic, offers a refreshing take on California’s wine culture. A key theme of her book is the acknowledgment of the contributions of the wine workers whose stories have often been overlooked. Rather than a conventional reference manual, the book serves as a meditation on place—highlighting the people, purpose, and potential behind California wines.
Chukan Brown noted a gap in the literature concerning California wine. She aimed to create a comprehensive text that not only appeals to seasoned wine enthusiasts but also resonates with newcomers who may not see themselves reflected in traditional wine narratives. Her goal was to convey that individuals from diverse backgrounds have been integral to the wine industry’s success.
In discussing the labor force behind the wine sector, Chukan Brown pointed to the history of farm labor in California, diving into the struggles faced by workers since the early 1900s. Major labor rights legislation, while progressive, often excluded agriculture, allowing a cycle of underappreciation for farm laborers to continue. Despite past movements advocating for workers’ rights, Chukan Brown noted that farm workers still face dismissal and exploitation. She argues that better recognition and collaboration with these workers are crucial for the industry’s evolution.
When asked about the defining characteristics of California’s wine identity, Chukan Brown reflected on the region’s ongoing evolution and the willingness to experiment with different grape varieties. She emphasized California’s innovative spirit as it challenges traditional norms, often achieving remarkable results.
The book also explores significant historical moments that shaped California’s wine reputation globally, from the increases in vineyard acreage during Prohibition to the renaissance sparked by the "French Paradox." Events like the 2008 financial crisis and COVID-19 have necessitated adaptiveness and responsiveness from the industry, leading to innovative practices and a new generation of wineries.
The Wines of California not only provides an extensive historical backdrop but also emphasizes the human stories that underpin the California wine landscape.
For more information, you can purchase Chukan Brown’s book at Academie du Vin Library.