Well-researched and down to earth: A free-spirited, free-form buffet
Brian St. Pierre reviews Who’s Afraid of Romanée-Conti? A Shortcut to Drinking Great Wines by Dan Keeling.
After scoring a generous financial bonus or finding a hidden windfall, a stroll down Lamb’s Conduit Street in London could lead to temptation for a wine enthusiast. Among the beckoning options, a restaurant called Noble Rot stands out with its unique wine list, highlighting extraordinary selections like Gravner’s Ribolla Gialla 2010 priced at £32 and Yquem 1989 at £135. Noble Rot forms part of an impressive wine-oriented empire helmed by its founders, whose playful and irreverent magazine similarly defies traditional wine culture.
Yet, their latest endeavor is more than just cheeky commentary—Dan Keeling’s new book is a thoughtful collection of essays and interviews that offers approachable “shortcuts” to discovering great wines. While it maintains a light-hearted tone, it also serves as a serious guide to navigating the evolving wine landscape in Europe. The book is structured with practical chapters aimed at helping novice wine seekers identify unique and high-quality wines, from rare finds to aging techniques, while encouraging readers to challenge long-standing wine conventions.
Keeling’s mission is clear: he advocates for embracing the exciting uncertainties of wine, arguing that genuine quality often defies bureaucratic controls like AOCs and PDOs. The author provides recommendations that underscore the wealth of undiscovered regions, emphasizing that exceptional wines can emerge from unexpected places. He champions the notion that great winemakers are visionary “dreamers” reshaping the industry.
Among the gems highlighted in the book are Vin Jaune from Jura, with its umami traits, and Swiss wines that defy usual sharing conventions. Each revelation serves to deepen the reader’s appreciation for diversity in wine, promoting an ethos where character trumps uniformity.
In a standout moment, Keeling even defends the use of sulfur in winemaking, invoking the need for balance in a world that often demonizes it. He highlights that natural wine’s advancements should be celebrated rather than create division within an already complex industry.
Ultimately, Who’s Afraid of Romanée-Conti? is more than just a collection of wine tips; it’s an invitation to explore and enjoy the broad spectrum of what wine can offer. It balances reverence for tradition, open-mindedness towards innovation, and an encouragement to embrace the unexpected in every glass. In a captivating tasting of numerous vintages from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Keeling beautifully illustrates that while change is essential, the consistent allure of fine wine remains unparalleled.
Who’s Afraid of Romanée-Conti? A Shortcut to Drinking Great Wines
Dan Keeling
Published by Quadrille; 285 pages; $45 / £30