In the wake of climate change, vintners in Beaujolais are facing a critical decision regarding the future of the Gamay grape, a staple of their vineyards. As harvest dates shift earlier—once occurring in September and now edging into July—wine producers are grappling with altered growing conditions and fluctuating styles of wine.
Historically, Gamay originated as a natural hybrid between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc in Burgundy, ripening a week later than Pinot Noir while maintaining higher acidity. This late-ripening attribute may now prove beneficial as producers reconsider the viability of traditional varieties. The looming questions: will Gamay be able to adapt, or will it be replaced by varieties like Syrah or Grenache?
To address these concerns, the Société d’Intérêt Collectif Agricole de Recherches et d’Expérimentations (SICAREX) has been pivotal in researching how to maintain and adapt Beaujolais’s wine production amidst changing climates. With roots dating back to the 1970s, SICAREX has become a bastion of progressive viticultural research. Their efforts include testing a range of grape varieties and clones, focusing on those with resilience against climate anomalies.
The SICAREX team, led by enologists Bertrand Chatelet and Valérie Lempereur, highlights the potential of not only improving existing Gamay clones but also integrating new varieties such as Gamaret, Gaminot, and others for greater stability. New regulations introduced in 2018 allow flexibility in planting, permitting growers to incorporate up to 5% different varieties within their plots, thus fostering novel cuvées.
Research at SICAREX has already led to the development of promising new varieties, including clones 1227 and 1170, which offer unique attributes that may help counter climate stressors. For instance, Gamaret shows an appealing fruity profile with built-in resistance to disease, while Gaminot combines characteristics of both Gamay and Pinot Noir.
Looking ahead, the landscape of Beaujolais wine may change dramatically. The region’s unique geologic diversity—home to over 300 distinct soil types—provides a playground for experimentation. As producers test new varieties and adapt their viticulture practices, the viticultural landscape could evolve significantly in response to ongoing climate challenges.
This evolution will spark conversations about the continued relevance of Gamay, the definitions of terroir, and how traditional wine styles might adapt to a rapidly changing climate. Only time will reveal whether Gamay can hold its ground or if Beaujolais will see a transformation in its vinous identity.