Frapin Château de Fontpinot, nestled in the heart of Cognac’s Grande Champagne, is recognized as a premier cru owing to its expansive 240 hectares of vineyards—making it the largest farm distillery in the region. This estate has been family-owned for over 750 years and is the only property in Grande Champagne that can claim the title "Château." Recently, Frapin unveiled two notable releases: a 1998 Vintage Cognac and Trilogie No. 1, a blend of older vintages from 1986, 1988, and 1990. This prompted a discussion with Patrice Piveteau, the maître de chai, about Frapin’s unique approach to these releases.
Aging and Terroir
The 1998 vintage Cognac benefited from a notably warm and dry summer, resulting in high levels of ripeness. Patrice emphasized that for Frapin, the goal is to craft Cognac with a sense of fruitiness, which begins right at the vineyard stage. Despite the common industry inclination toward high-acid wines with lower alcohol content, Piveteau noted that he could distill wines with alcohol levels up to 11.5% ABV, allowing for more concentrated flavors.
Determining the quality of a spirit begins right after distillation, but it involves a long-term evaluation process. Piveteau taste-tests the spirit shortly after distillation to assess its balance. He remarks that the readiness of a vintage is subjective, with some needing up to 30 years to reach maturity.
Frapin employs different aging environments, utilizing both humid floor warehouses and drier attic storage to influence the aging process and complexity of flavors. The 1998 cognac primarily aged in humid conditions, yielding a roundness and richness.
The Alchemy of Blending
In terms of the Trilogie No. 1, blending different vintages is a creative exercise for Piveteau, who initiates the process with a conceptual idea followed by blind tastings of assembled samples. The successes of past blends encouraged the decision to craft this new blend using the 1990 vintage for structure, supported by the 1988 and 1986 vintages.
Piveteau explained that blending can create unexpected complexities that cannot be attributed solely to the individual components, describing it as an “alchemy” where the blended spirit takes on a life of its own. He believes the best blends typically offer greater complexity than their individual parts, although not every blend warrants creation.
Tasting Notes
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Frapin Millésime 1998 25 Ans d’Âge Cognac Grande Champagne Premier Cru de Cognac (40.2% ABV)Bright golden amber with initial aromas of sandalwood and fenugreek, supported by hints of raisin and dried mushrooms. The palate is rich, featuring dried fruits and honeycomb, with delicate floral notes emerging over time. Adding water enhances its harmony while preserving the integrity of its flavors.
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Trilogie Frapin No.1: 1986–1988–1990 Cognac Grande Champagne Premier Cru de Cognac (41.2% ABV)Sienna gold in color, it exudes vibrant aromas of crystallized violet and orange, leading to a floral flavor explosion once sipped. The complexity unfolds progressively, revealing earth and stone notes balanced by a creamy texture. A touch of water elevates the aromatic intensity without diminishing concentration.
The retail prices for these exquisite Cognacs stand at €190 for the Millésime 1998 and €350 for Trilogie No. 1, both available through select distributors.