Miguel Crunia, a Galician sommelier and co-director of Fìon, a wine merchant specializing in low-intervention wines from Spain and Portugal, reflects on his journey in the wine world. With 11 years of experience managing fine dining in Edinburgh, Crunia has cultivated a deep appreciation for wines, particularly those from Atlantic regions.
My First Memorable Wine Experience
Growing up, wine was integral to family gatherings, especially because my grandfather was a wine merchant. He often advised, "Spend a bit more on good wine." At the time, I didn’t grasp the significance, but now I completely understand.
My Go-To Everyday Wines
I have a fondness for Atlantic whites, especially Albariño and Palomino.
My Favourite Supermarket Buy
I enjoy oxidative styles of Port and Sherry.
My Most Embarrassing Moment at Work
I once served a Tenerife wine, assuming the customers had never tasted it before. While enthusiastically sharing what I knew, I made an inaccurate statement about the island, only to find out that the customers had lived there for years. Losing their trust was a humbling lesson about the importance of accuracy in my role.
Pet Hate
It’s disheartening when people view sommeliers as adversaries. While the jargon we sometimes use can be daunting, many of us aspire to share our passion for wine and the stories behind each bottle.
My Desert Island Pairing
I would choose a Spanish omelette, Betanzos-style, paired with Zárate’s El Palomar Albariño (2023, £49 Highbury Vintners).
Best Food and Wine Match
One of our most memorable pairings at Fìon involved an English Seyval Blanc fizz, GMF (2020, £34.50 Fìon), matched with scallop ceviche — a dish crafted by Scott Smith of Fhior restaurant.
My Fallback Quick After-Work Pairing
A baked ham and cheddar sandwich, complemented by an unfortified Palomino aged under flor.
Best Buy on My List Right Now
130 Brut Nature by Xavi Bernet, which is part of the Corpinnat movement. It’s made entirely from Xarel.lo grapes sourced from very old vines and priced at £42.50—offering excellent value.
The Wine That Never Fails to Surprise
Alvar de Dios’ Caminos de los Arrieros (2021, £21-£24) surprises many by being refreshing and ethereal, contrasting with the robust expectations often tied to the Duero region.
Wines I’d Avoid on a Restaurant List
I tend to steer clear of ordinary, fruit-forward rosés. While fine in casual settings, they don’t align with fine dining experiences.
Wine Region I’m Most Excited About
The Ribeiro region in Galicia is fascinating due to its rich history. Once a thriving trade hub with England, it now produces outstanding field blends from indigenous varieties and is reclaiming traditional styles such as the tostado.
Wine Style I Don’t Enjoy Drinking
I’m not a fan of Picpoul de Pinet.
Best-Value Wine Region
Ribeira Sacra stands out for its bold producers who cultivate wine on perilous slopes—an admirable feat that should justify higher prices than they currently command.
My Favourite Wine Region to Visit
Ribeira Sacra, known for its dramatic landscapes, offers beautiful drives and notable producers like Adega Entre Cantos and Guímaro.