Walls: A Journey Through “Memento Mori” and the Art of Remembrance

By | 15 January 2025

In his first column of the year, Matt Walls reflects on how our engagement with wine taps into fundamental human qualities: patience, hope, and the awareness of our mortality. He notes that the allure of wine collecting often appeals to those in their 30s and older, necessitating a long-term perspective. Individuals who cultivate their collections are often revisited by the themes of aging and inevitable decline.

Walls reminisces about the 1990 vintage – a remarkable year across regions like Hermitage, Pauillac, and Piedmont. He expresses a desire to invest in similar vintages, acknowledging that enjoying these wines often requires decades of patience. He reflects on his own early years of collecting when he finally could enjoy bottles that had aged gracefully. The long wait transforms each bottle from mere wine into a vessel of hope, making the tasting experience all the more rewarding.

He delves into the life cycles of grapevines, paralleling their growth stages with human life spans. Young vines generate abundant fruit but not necessarily the finest quality. As they mature, they provide their best offerings in their later years, ultimately becoming less fruitful but more valuable. This natural progression reinforces the connection between vintners and the passage of time, reminding collectors of the fluid nature of winemaking, especially as generations of winemakers pass.

The desire for aged wines connects collectors to a sense of history and nostalgia, allowing them to bridge the past and the present. Each bottle is a reminder of mortality; however, Walls emphasizes that wine collecting is ultimately a celebration of life and future happiness. Each purchase is underscored by an implicit commitment to savor these selections and share in the joys they promise.

Walls encourages readers to view their collections not just as status symbols but as investments in personal and shared experiences that will bring joy when those carefully selected bottles are finally uncorked. Every bottle serves as a reminder of past decisions that lead to celebratory moments in the future, reinforcing the idea that life—and wine—is meant to be enjoyed fully.

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