2023 proved to be a distinctive vintage for Burgundy, marked by both abundance and variability. The growing season was characterized by intense heat, with temperatures soaring up to 38ºC (100ºF). The result was a plentiful harvest of Pinot Noir, yet the quality was inconsistent, raising questions about the balance between quantity and quality in this heterogeneous year.
Whites vs. RedsThe whites from Burgundy in 2023 generally stood out as the more impressive offerings, described as ripe, supple, and juicy, with alcohol levels reaching up to 14.5% ABV. The aromatic profile transitioned beautifully from citrus fruits to tropical hints during ripening. Nonetheless, a minority of white wines were harvested too early, leading to a leaner, less desirable character. Overall, however, many of the whites exhibited a vibrant balance, with pleasant freshness despite the warm conditions.
In contrast, the reds, while fruit-driven, faced challenges regarding their depth and intensity. They ranged from medium-bodied with modest alcohol levels to some reaching over 14% ABV. The fruit character varied significantly—from bright morello cherries to softer summer fruits. Unfortunately, many reds were perceived as lacking the vibrancy typically associated with the region, with some exhibiting overripe qualities, while others conveyed a jammy flavor profile.
Comparative VintagesWhen assessed against other recent vintages, the 2023 whites mirror the structure and balance of 2022 but with slightly less acidity and depth. They also recall elements of 2017, presenting more alcohol and body but with a softer finish. Notably, the reds are compared to 2017 for their charm but are frequently viewed as less structured than the robust 2015 and smoother 2018 vintages.
Harvest ConditionsThe season kicked off with a dry winter leading into a wet spring that prompted rapid vine growth. Key vineyard practices like stringent debudding were employed to mitigate disease. However, the region faced challenges from localized hailstorms and an inability to adequately manage abundant yields. A significant green-harvest was conducted, yet many producers still encountered larger-than-average crop loads, exacerbating difficulties in winemaking due to uneven ripeness.
Winemaking AdjustmentsProducers made various adjustments in the winery to counterbalance the challenges posed by the year’s climate. For whites, potential alcohol levels ranged significantly, leading some producers to chaptalize to stabilize their wines. Fermentation techniques varied, with some utilizing traditional barriques and others experimenting with ceramic and concrete vessels in pursuit of enhanced minerality and freshness.
For the reds, there was a tendency towards using whole-bunch fermentation to extract freshness and complexity, although many opted for destemming due to concerns over green tannins. Extraction techniques varied, with many producers employing gentle methods to preserve the delicate fruit character.
Culmination of Vintage QualityThe universal sentiment among producers was that 2023 would turn out better than anticipated, with many expressing optimism regarding the evolving quality of the wines as they matured. Overall, while the whites promise significant enjoyment and aging potential, the reds are perceived as charming yet inconsistent, leaning more towards immediate drinkability rather than long-term aging capacity.
In summary, the 2023 Burgundy vintage showcases a unique juxtaposition between its white and red wines, with the former generally emerging as more successful in terms of quality and character. As producers continue to navigate the challenges and joys of this vintage, the evolving nature of these wines will undoubtedly offer fascinating experiences for wine enthusiasts.