Austrian Alternative wines were highlighted in a recent seminar led by Aleks Zecevic, part of Alberg Weinberg 2024. Alex’s journey into the world of wine began at 19 when a family connection brought him to a wine shop in Manhattan. His passion for natural wines ignited after attending a Jura natural wine tasting. With experience from the Wine Spectator and Sotheby’s, he cultivated a refined palate for natural wines.
During the seminar, issues surrounding the labeling of Austrian wines were discussed, particularly the missed opportunity to emphasize the regional identity that could help distinguish quality wines. Chris Yorke, who heads Wines of Austria, noted that a significant portion of exports were low-quality wines labeled as Austrian, with some regions reporting as much as 50%.
A selection of over a dozen notable wines was presented:
- Franz Strohmeier Sekt Brut Nature Schilcher The Spiral 2014: 11.5% alcohol, features earthy notes and high acidity with a distinctive lemony finish (83/100).
- Christoph Hoch Sekt Brut Nature Kalkreich NV: 11% alcohol, a powerful traditional method sparkling wine, characterized by spicy and citrus notes (89/100).
- Von der Vogelwaide Grüner Veltliner Tandaradai 2022: 12.5% alcohol, known for its intense citrus and pear flavors with a creamy texture (94/100).
- Wabi Sabi Wine Riesling Aqualeiten L 22: 12% alcohol, lively and bright with a juicy finish (93/100).
- Christian Tschida Riesling Laissez Faire 2022: 12% alcohol, offers complexity with pear and sweet melon flavors (95/100).
- Wenzel Furmint Stockkultur Alte Reben 2023: 12.5% alcohol, showcases striking minerality and citrus fruit (95/100).
- Maria & Sepp Muster Morillon Graf 2020: 12.5% alcohol, noted for its amazing purity and linear acidity (95/100).
- Straka Welschriesling 3330 2021: 13% alcohol, featuring spicy phenolic character with bright fruit acidity (82/100).
- Martin & Anna Arndorfer Rosé Zweigelt Rosa Marie 2023: 11% alcohol, enjoyed for its fresh and zippy profile (93/100).
- Ploder-Rosenberg Souvignier Gris Linea 500 2017: 13.5% alcohol, balances texture and bright acidity with harmony (91/100).
- Werlitsch Glück 2020: 12.5% alcohol, highlighted by its aromatic profile and nice structure (94/100).
- Rosi Schuster St Laurent Rusterberg Ried Repistye Zagersdorf 2022: a well-structured red wine with elegant juiciness (95/100).
- Johannes Trapl Blaufränkisch Ried Prellenkirchner Spitzerberg 1OTW 2020: 13% alcohol, expressive and balanced with lovely purity (94/100).
- Gut Oggau Joschuari Rot 2021: 13% alcohol, vibrant with tangy red fruit and a touch of wildness (93/100).
- Weninger Blaufränkisch Say 2021: 14% alcohol, characterized by intense berry fruit and alluring complexity (94/100).
This event offered a glimpse into the burgeoning landscape of Austrian natural wines, revealing the potential and diversity of the country’s offerings while drawing attention to the need for better regional representation in the wine market.