As world leaders convene in Baku for COP29, Paul White reflects on the rich history and evolving landscape of Azerbaijani wine, showcasing notable producers from his recent visit.
Azerbaijan, often seen as an outlier in the wine world, shares borders with wine-rich countries like Georgia and Armenia, where ancient winemaking traditions thrive. Despite this, Azerbaijani wine has remained relatively obscure. This might seem surprising given the region’s lengthy vinous history, which stretches back over 4,000 years, as noted by historical figures like Herodotus and Strabo.
The question arises: how does wine culture thrive in a nation that is 96% Muslim? Surprisingly, Azerbaijanis maintain a level of tolerance toward alcohol. In Baku’s vibrant cafés, it’s common to see people enjoying a drink, a practice rooted in centuries of diverse cultural influences that gracefully coexist, even during periods of Islamic rule.
The rise and fall of Azerbaijani wine production are closely tied to its tumultuous history. Following the Russian conquest in the 19th century and later Soviet control, wine production boomed, reaching peaks of 2 million tons by 1985. However, Gorbachev’s anti-alcohol campaigns drastically curtailed production, leading to a substantial decline in vineyard acreage.
In the 2000s, the Azerbaijani wine industry experienced a renaissance, driven by government support and private investment. Most wineries consist of large industrial operations that cultivate extensive vineyards, a stark contrast to the family-owned wineries prevalent in other wine cultures. The focus has been on improving quality and establishing a distinct Azerbaijani identity through local grape varieties alongside international cultivars.
Noteworthy producers include Savalan, which emphasizes French varietals with surprising consistency; Meysari, which combines Rhône grapes with local varieties to craft balanced wines; and the revived Chabiant, which is moving towards a more locally-oriented production while maintaining a focus on Italian-style wines. A standout in the scene is the emerging producer FA Valley, where Dr. Farkhad Agayev creates exceptional Italian varietals in a boutique winery setting.
As Azerbaijan seeks to carve out its niche, winemakers are exploring local grape varieties through DNA studies, hoping to enhance vineyard biodiversity. The winemaking community is optimistic, recognizing the need to incorporate Azerbaijan’s ancient winemaking traditions, such as clay pot fermentation, into their practices.
Baku is quickly becoming a hub for wine tourism, offering a vibrant blend of culture, gastronomy, and stunning architecture. With its proximity to numerous wineries, many of which feature spectacular mountain views and delicious local cuisine, it’s an exciting time for anyone interested in exploring Azerbaijan’s vinous resurrection.
Azerbaijani wine is on the cusp of becoming an intriguing chapter in the world of viticulture, showcasing a balance between its historical roots and modern influences.