A birthday tasting of Champagne’s most exclusive rosé.
Sara Underdown charts the beautiful evolution of Cristal Rosé as a wine over time, punctuated with textural luxury and representing the culmination of a long and winding path to biodynamics, craftsmanship, and taste.
Tastings don’t come any rarer or grander than one I was fortunate enough to be invited to this year to celebrate the 50th anniversary of what is arguably Champagne’s most exclusive rosé: Cristal Rosé.
“This is an important and emotional moment for me,” expressed chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon during our conversation before dinner at the Roederer family mansion in Reims. Since joining the family-operated Roederer Group in the early 1990s, and eventually becoming chef de cave in 1999, he has developed a deep passion for Cristal Rosé. Since our first encounter in 2012, his pursuit of perfection for it was evident.
The wine, like many aspects of life, has transformed over its 50-year history, albeit always improving. Under Lécaillon’s stewardship, the wine has steadfastly adhered to the original vision of being an “amplified” take on Cristal Brut yet maintaining a light body.
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Introduced nearly a century after Cristal Brut, in 1974, Cristal Rosé was a brilliant innovation by Jean-Claude Rouzaud, the contemporary patriarch of the maison. He wisely allocated aged Pinot Noir vines from premiere sites to define the distinctive style of Cristal.
Rouzaud joined the company in 1967 after completing his studies in viticulture and persuading the family on his mother’s side, who were proprietors of Roederer, to give him an opportunity. He worked alongside an experienced vineyard manager before becoming the head winemaker in 1973. “I think it was the first time a chef de cave originated from the vineyards,” Lécaillon noted, reflecting on the early inception. “I believe that’s why Cristal Rosé is the first prestige cuvée that truly emphasizes a return to terroir.”
During a period when Champagne was largely driven by blending expertise and marketing, Rouzaud’s focus on terroir was crucial for launching Cristal Rosé, even in the challenging year of 1974. He envisioned Cristal Rosé as an elevated form of Cristal that required maceration with skins instead of the more common method of adding red wine to a white wine base. He devised a method to enable contact with the skins without fermentation to capture aromatic qualities. Subsequent fermentation introduced a new depth of complex and rich aromas. “We are not just making wine; we are creating perfume!” Lécaillon commented about their extraction technique.
He compares the process to cold-brewing tea, a recent interest of Lécaillon’s, which even motivated him to visit Japan to further learn from leading tea experts. He aims to refine his understanding of the extraction techniques to unveil finer and more subtle aromas and textures. Though uncertain about the exact outcomes, Lécaillon anticipates it will form a new “chapter” in the narrative of Cristal Rosé, linked to both terroir and the concept of infusion.
Black grape varieties are crucial in making any rosé Champagne, particularly Cristal Rosé. Rouzaud initially selected three Pinot Noir plots from the Bonottes district in Aÿ. These plots, namely Bonotte Pierre Robert, Gargeotte, and Côte du Moulin, still form part of the Cristal Rosé domain today, prized for their fruit that yields exceptionally juicy and vibrant Pinots with great aromatic qualities.
Hallowed ground in Aÿ, in Champagne’s historic cradle, is home to some of the finest grand cru sites, where some of the greatest Champagnes are birthed, including Dom Pérignon Rosé and Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque. The fabled wines from this area were once coveted by the kings of France and offer ripe fruit character and textured elegance, all within the finely chiseled framework of chalk terroir.
“We are lucky to have vineyards in Aÿ,” says Lécaillon “It’s a large area, but toward Mareuil-sur-Aÿ you have more clay, silex, and rock, so the wines are broad and strong. But toward Dizy, where we are, it’s super-chalky. It makes elegant wines that stay on the peachy and floral side in aroma.”
It is here in the land of Champagne’s giants that Louis Roederer marks its long-documented path to organics and the expression of style that has always taken its lead from chalk. One of the particularities of this part of Aÿ is that Pinot Noir is grown on what is essentially Chardonnay soil, which brings Cristal Rosé’s characteristic lightness, minerality, and soft deliciousness. It may be extraordinary to grow black-skinned grapes on such land, but this is Champagne, and Cristal is no ordinary wine.
In 1998, Lécaillon identified lieu-dit La Villers, also in this area, as a future Cristal Rosé site, replanting it with massal-selection material taken from Rouzaud’s historic plots. “We stick to the same plots, but we renew them, so that we have a choice,” says Lécaillon when I ask him about the future sourcing strategy for Pinot.
The charm of La Villers lies in its elevated position and placement on the midslope, contributing to the coolness particularly beneficial during hotter years. Since 2018, Cristal Rosé has originated from this plot. However, after two decades, the original vineyards will be reintegrated. “The plots are phenomenal, and when we opted for them in 1998, I considered future climatic conditions. We chose to situate higher on the slopes to retain freshness. When Bonotte Pierre Robert, Gargeotte, and Côte du Moulin are reintroduced, we plan to also maintain La Villers for additional options, as it will be necessary,” explains Lécaillon.
The year 2007 was pivotal for Cristal Rosé. It marked the first vintage that Lécaillon cultivated biodynamically, a first for any top-tier Champagne. In a biodynamic setup like that used for Cristal Rosé, treatments moderate vine vigor in sunny periods to ensure vibrancy. However, in colder years, the preference shifts towards organic practices due to the overwhelming effects of biodynamics. Both approaches aim to balance soil-driven freshness with the richness derived from sunlight.
In the realm of Chardonnay, two distinct parcels from the Côte des Blancs play a crucial role: Pierre Vaudon in Avize and Montmartin in Le Mesnil. Avize contributes robustness and a more Burgundian style, while the southeast-oriented plot in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger elongates the taste with a prolonged, refined, and saline finish. The current blend of Cristal Rosé comprises 55% Pinot Noir from Aÿ and 45% Chardonnay, equally sourced from Avize and Le Mesnil.
The year 2008 was yet another significant moment for Lécaillon. He altered the skin contact technique, extending it from two or three days to between five and eight days. This adjustment, achieved by maintaining a lower temperature, fosters a subtler flavor profile and enhances the bouquet’s refinement.
The process remains unchanged; there is no stirring or agitating. After the initial soak, the juice from the Pinot Noir is separated, then combined with Chardonnay juice for co-fermentation. This method avoids alcoholic fermentation in the presence of skins, preventing the extraction of heavier elements. Consequently, the resulting wine maintains a lighter, more mineral-heavy characteristic typical of Champagne, rather than transforming into a red wine.
Cristal Rosé is not produced annually. In the last fifty years, only 25 vintages were created, signifying its rarity. These years include 1974, 1975, 1976, 1978, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2000, 2002, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012, 2013, and 2014. According to Lécaillon, the release of Cristal Rosé depends on the uniqueness of the year’s aroma. He mentioned, “It’s all about the infusion process; you never know until it’s complete. For Cristal, we need clear skies. For Cristal Rosé, the requirements are even more stringent.”
The five-decade legacy of Cristal Rosé is defined by its unparalleled attention to detail and a continuous effort to refine its distinctive procedure involving infusion. These efforts have produced exceptionally rare and prized wines, earning them extraordinary recognition and acclaim.
2013 Cristal Rosé (magnum)
One of my favorite years, very classical in style. Lovely, delicate peach and rhubarb aromas. On the palate, creamy and concentrated, with a persistent, mineral finish. | 99
2012 Cristal Rosé (Jéroboam)
One of the greatest examples of Louis Roederer’s biodynamic advancements, representing a more amplified version of Cristal Rosé. It’s rich, fruity, zesty, and creamy, with some pie-crust secondary character and a touch of bitterness on the way to a long finish. | 98
2009 Cristal Rosé (Jéroboam)
From a particularly warm year, the Pinot Noir grapes have reached their optimal ripeness, imbuing the wine with a juicy flavor devoid of any green tones. The six to seven day infusion has resulted in a softly extracted, beautifully dimensional taste. | 97
2008 Cristal Rosé (magnum)
This vintage shows a slightly darker hue, presenting more intense and deeper fruit flavors compared to the 2009. The Champagne feels scintillating and effortless, distinguished by its almost ethereal lightness and pronounced acidity. It offers a tantalizing mix of exquisite fruitiness and crisp malic tension, finishing long and intense on the back-palate with a rounding touch of creamy notes. It’s exceptional. | 99
2004 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque (magnum) and original disgorgement (magnum?)
A “crazy” vintage, as described by Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. In a tasting session, we juxtaposed this alongside an original disgorgement of the 2004 Cristal Rosé, noted for its intense, savory flavor. The comparison ignited the most lively debate of the evening. The original disgorgement clearly demonstrated a more pronounced, delicious expression. Vinothèque 98, original disgorgement | 99
2002 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque (magnum)
This edition appeared fresher and more chalky compared to the 2004, with a red fruit profile that evolved into more complex, smoky nuances. It boasts a full-bodied structure that promises to develop beautifully with time. | 98
1996 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque (magnum)
Lécaillon’s debut blend highlights the characteristics of Champagnes from 1996 known for their enduring high acidity. Contrary to the decision by many producers to pick based on analytical data rather than flavor, this Champagne manages to avoid the resultant imbalance. It excels in a complex profile of smooth, saline textures, and a deep umami essence, demonstrating a remarkable concentration on the palate. | 98
1995 Cristal Rosé (magnum)
Marked by notable sharpness and acidity, this vintage also impresses with its rich concentration. It has matured into a state of delightful taste. | 96
1989 Cristal Rosé (magnum)
A truly great year for this cuvée. An outstanding Champagne that is quintessentially Cristal Rosé, with its extreme elegance. At this age, it feels complete. It’s full of youthful energy and finesse, at the same time deeply concentrated, harmoniously textured, and finely balanced. Perhaps the greatest Cristal Rosé I have tasted. | 99
1978 Cristal Rosé (Gravé)
Reduced effervescence, as you might expect, but loads of coffee and mocha, smoky reduction, and a pleasant, bitter finish. | 95
1976 Cristal Rosé
There’s life in the old dog yet! This was an extra-special treat, there being only 58 bottles left in Roederer’s cellars. Naturally, it is the most tertiary of the wines, with plenty of dried fruit, toast, and toffee character. More pétillant than effervescent at this age, but convincingly fresh, despite the lower-than-desirable acidity levels. | 95