Exploring Quality and Value at Niagara (16) MW Cellars

By | 4 September 2024

Who else but Marty and Rachael Werner could manage to open two wineries within two months? They kicked things off with York, a sparkling wine venture, and quickly followed that with the establishment of MW Cellars. “York has been a long-standing project with little left to do,” Marty explained. “The major event this summer was launching the MW retail store.”

The store itself is situated in a quaint lean-to barn. “Throughout the Covid pandemic, I was able to produce and distribute these wines via outlets like Ryan’s at Ruffinos in Niagara-on-the-Lake,” Marty said. “Once things started to normalize, opening a retail space for MW seemed like the next logical step.”

Marty shared the origins of their latest project: “We initiated this project amidst Covid, recognizing a prime opportunity. We also set up Northern Wine Merchants, an import agency in Ontario focusing on MW wines. Our objective was to feature wines priced for by-the-glass selections in restaurants, crafting expressive wines that could compete in this sector, starting in Toronto.”

The majority of their grapes come from the Werner family’s 150-acre vineyards, although they do purchase additional fruit, such as for the Pinot Blanc. Their inaugural vintage emerged in 2021, with Eden Garry playing a key role in the winemaking process.

MW Cellars Pinot Blanc 2023
Utilizes 600 litre barrels with thick construction. Exhibits a vibrant and fresh character, complete with crisp citrus flavors alongside hints of mandarin and table grape. This variant presents a serious demeanor, complemented by a textured feel and a subtly creamy finish. Distinctly stylish. 90/100 ($18)

MW Cellars Pinot Grigio 2023
Crafted in stainless steel tanks. Features a clear, crystalline citrus and mandarin profile accented with exotic floral hints (X5 yeast). The taste is both fruit-forward and expressive, balanced by pleasing acidity. Remarkably commercially savvy. 88/100 ($18)

MW Cellars Aligoté 2023
Produced in stainless steel. Sourced from York Road. Presents a bright, linear, and stony character with sharp acidity. The wine maintains a sense of linearity and brightness, contributing to an appealing tension and transparency. Concludes with a stony and somewhat firm finish. 90/100 ($18)

MW Cellars Chardonnay 2022
Aged in 500 litre Mercurey barrels. The background resonates with subtle toast and nutty notes, alongside pear and peach fruits, and vibrant citrus touches. The overall brightness melds well with attractive oak influences. Ends with a tangy finish. 89/100 ($18)

MW Cellars Reserve Chardonnay 2022
This variant includes selectively chosen fruit, enhanced reduction, and amplified oak influence, coupled with a rich texture yet maintaining freshness. Distinct flavors of toast and pear marry with taut acidity and subtle oak, creating an elegant profile. Rated 92/100, priced at $26.

MW Cellars Seashell Unfiltered 2021
Inspired by a visit to Champagne, Rachel and Marty considered crafting still wines. They harvested Chardonnay and Pinot Noir simultaneously, eventually producing two 50:50 blend wines—one as a white, the other as a red. This wine exhibits brightness, rounded fruitiness complemented by tones of pear, almond, and mandarin, followed by a juicy, straight palate with a crystalline end highlighted by a hint of salinity. Scored 90/100, available for $21.

MW Cellars Scarlet Unfiltered 2021
A golden-red hue characterizes this wine. It presents a structured and vivid palate featuring bright cherry and mandarin notes, along with nuances of glace cherry. A unique profile is rounded out with solid tannic structure and lively acidity. Rated 91/100, priced at $21.

MW Cellars Sémillon 2023
Procured from Palantine Hills, a winery they occasionally partner with. This wine is vibrant and focused, blending notes of pear and mandarin with delicate herbal undertones, and a pleasantly fruity mouthfeel. The finish is straight and vivacious. Scored 90/100, offered at $21.

MW Cellars Viognier 2022
This delightful version of Viognier exhibits a straightforward, fruit-forward profile featuring prominent notes of peach and apricot. The inclusion of 7% botrytis enriches the flavor palette, introducing tropical and mandarin nuances, whereas a hint of sweetness (7 g/l) provides a balanced finish. Excellently crafted. 89/100

MW Cellars Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2022
Grown from 12-year-old vines near the lake, clone 777, this wine undergoes a wild ferment leveraging the New Zealand hamburger method that alternates between crushed and destemmed to whole bunch techniques. This process yields a richly fruited profile with an appealing spicy touch, layered with notes of strawberry and cherry and a vibrant acidity. Both sweet and tangy. A delightful wine. 91/100 ($21)

MW Cellars Gamay 2022
Emphasizing carbonic maceration, this wine takes a unique approach by using pre-inoculated juice to maximize CO2 saturation within the berries. The result is a vivid expression marked by tartness and spiciness, featuring redcurrant, cherry, and strawberry flavors. The texture is sweet and silky, yet maintains a pleasant tang, making the wine vibrant and captivating. 92/100 ($18)

MW Cellars Paramour Gamay 2021 St Davids
Originating from Rachel’s parent’s vineyard and in collaboration with Michael Godel, this wine employs the saignee method. It presents a robust structure supporting a lush palate of sweet black cherry and blackberry, with 50% new oak contributing added backbone. The result is a concentrated and dense wine with well-defined fruit and structure. 90/100

MW Cellars Cabernet Franc 2021 St Davids
Rachel’s parent’s farm contributed some of the grapes, with saignee technique applied. Aged in new French oak barrels exclusive to North America’s eastern region, adding a spicy oak undertone to the dense and concentrated fruit flavors. The wine is characteristically grippy and full-bodied, featuring bold, ripe fruit along with a pleasantly tarry texture. Score: 92/100. Price: $25.

League of Farmers Cabernet Franc 2021
A collaborative venture involving three ex-hockey players, each owning over sixty acres of vineyards, contributing grapes. Marty manages both the vineyard and winemaking processes. This wine showcases lively, intense flavors of raspberry, blackberry, and blackcurrant, enriched by a background of fine spices. It has a vivid richness and a smooth, silky texture, culminating in a lush, fruit-driven finish. Score: 92/100. Price: $42.

League of Farmers Cabernet Franc 2020
This edition presents a chalky texture with a delightful mix of intense, sweet flavors from blackcurrant and cherry, complemented by a salty edge. The ripe, black fruits lend a nice sweetness and lushness, supported by a subtle tarry depth and a bit of grip. Overall, a very impressive wine. Score: 93/100. Price: $42.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *