Website: https://dumol.com/
On a stunning July day during the 2024 growing season, I toured DuMol while the vines were beginning to show early signs of veraison. Andy Smith, along with winemaker Jenna Davis, crafts exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Russian River Valley.
Originating from Edinburgh, Andy ventured into the wine industry in Napa in the mid-1990s before pursuing further education in viticulture at Lincoln University in New Zealand. Post his studies, he collaborated with Neil McCullum at Dry River for two seasons before moving back to California. He joined Littorai and worked under Ted Lemon in 1998, and later teamed up with consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs, producing DuMol wines during 1999 and 2000. In 2001, he embraced a partnership role at DuMol.
The inception of DuMol dates back to 1996, initially functioning as a negociant enterprise. Present-day, it boasts numerous owned estates and managed vineyards under long-term leases, complemented by a selection of negociant-sourced grapes. DuMol is renowned for its array of single-vineyard offerings predominant in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, alongside a variety of exclusive wines available to their mailing list members.
We explored the vineyards: the estate comprises 65 acres close to their tasting center, nestled in Green Valley, divided into six sections. The vineyard with the most intense planting is Bressay, spanning 20 acres with a density of 3630 vines per acre (9000 vines per hectare), arranged closely at 1.3 m x 0.75 m intervals. Here, they cultivate both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with the vines originating from 2004 and 2005. The terrain features the characteristic Goldridge sandy loams, permitting them to engage in dry farming utilizing Riparia rootstocks.
The practice of dense planting is specific to DuMol, inspired by two primary benefits. Andy explains, ‘We minimize the demands on each vine, establishing a natural equilibrium here. This results in uniform growth without the necessity for crop thinning.’ Another merit is that the dense arrangement and relatively tall canopies provide mutual shading for the vines and the soil, thus moderating the ambient temperature.
Rather than focusing on clones, they prioritize massal selection from established older clones for propagation. ‘Our approach is to select from mature variants,’ Andy remarks, ‘currently, we’re incorporating our fifth generation selection from Calera, utilizing the fourth generation for any new planting.’ They start with rootstock which is cultivated for at least two years before grafting. It generally takes around 6 to 7 years to transition the vines off irrigational support, especially in areas underlain by sandstone, which mimics limestone in its capacity to retain and gradually dispense water throughout the dry months.
Although they follow organic farming practices, they are not officially certified. They face challenges like Pierce’s disease, which fluctuates cyclically. Due to climate change, the colder winters that once controlled the population of the vector, the glassy-winged sharpshooter, are no more, pushing them to apply kaolin clay as a natural deterrent against this pest in spring.
The vineyard section dedicated to Chardonnay is nestled among diverse trees including laurel, bay, redwood, and larch, which impart unique aromatic qualities to the wine.
In the late 1990s when Andy began his tenure at DuMol, securing quality grapes was highly competitive. Fortunately, his prior experience in Napa and connection with Larry Hyde paved the way to access renowned Chardonnay grapes. Currently, Andy continues to collaborate with Hyde and Hudson Vineyards in Napa, alongside other sources located in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast.
Chardonnay Winemaking Process
Nighttime harvesting of grapes is followed by a prolonged and gentle pressing process without any cuts. Utilizing a Willmes press leads to moderate phenolic extraction, contributing to a tannin-rich wine that ages well without altering the pH due to lack of maceration. The juice settles overnight and is then transferred to barrels without SO2. These barrels consist of 25% new oak, crafted by artisan coopers with thicker staves and a medium toast. After about five days, yeasts activate, initiating a three-week fermentation period that becomes quite intense in temperature. Once fermentation completes and the wine dries, it undergoes malolactic inoculation, concluding by the end of April when SO2 is added for the first time. The lees are not stirred throughout this process. The wine is refined in stainless steel tanks for six months, allowing it to naturally settle without stabilization or filtration.
DuMol Highland Divide Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2022 Sonoma County, California
This Chardonnay hails from leased parts of Dutton Ranch, specifically the Morelli and Gentoff vineyards planted in 1995 and 2007 with Mount Eden and Hyde Wente clones respectively. Positioned at higher elevations in Green Valley, the wine expresses a citrussy, mineral profile complemented by vibrant acidity. It features delightful aromas of pear and peach, intertwined with subtle herbal nuances. The palate is bright and linear, showcasing controlled richness, resulting in a wine that is both stylish and well-rounded. Rated 94/100.
DuMol Lorenzo Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 Russian River Valley
Originally planted in 1974, these pre-clonal vines thrive in clay-rich soil and a landscape dotted with aromatic trees. The wine offers a stunning bouquet of pear, melon, and peach, complemented by herbal undertones. On the palate, it reveals an intricate blend of lemon zest, mandarin orange, peach, and bright citrus, creating a finely textured and spectacular experience. Rating: 95/100
DuMol Chloe Chardonnay 2020 Russian River Valley
Crafted from a mix of vineyards, this Chardonnay boasts a robust Californian style balanced by the estate vineyard’s acidity. It features enticing layers of sweet pear, peach, and sharp citrus. The texture is enhanced by a sweet fruity core and leesy nuances, finished with a saline twist and warm spices. Thoroughly rich in fruits and texture. Rating: 94/100
DuMol Estate Chardonnay 2013 Russian River Valley (magnum)
This small-batch wine from 2 acres of densely planted vines uses Mount Eden and Wente clones. With matured oak usage at 40%, it offers a complex bouquet of herbs, mint, and unique garrigue-like aromas alongside pear and peach, with a hint of fresh cabbage and subtle toasty notes. Its citrus profile is distinct and it shows a youthful spirit with a spicy finish. Truly exquisite. Rating: 95/100
Pinot Winemaking Process: The winery avoids cold soaking; instead, grapes harvested at night at around 13C begin fermenting naturally after 5 days, assisted by dry ice but with minimal intervention. Few punchdowns—usually just four—are performed, alongside gentle, brief pumpovers, allowing the grapes to release their qualities naturally during a three-week skin maceration.
Du Mol Highland Divide Pinot Noir 2022 Russian River Valley
A concoction from three different estate vineyards that includes high-density plantings and massale selections along with a sprinkle of Dijon 943. This wine emerges from 8 separate fermentations and involves about 15% whole cluster. It is matured in 30% new oak barrels, employing both light and medium toast, for 11 months followed by a stint of three months in stainless steel tanks, notably unfiltered. This creation exemplifies the essence of Green Valley with its enchanting floral nose complemented by sweet cherries and warm spices alongside subtle leafy undertones. The flavor profile is rich and silky, showcasing ripe cherry and berry nuances with commendable concentration and a graceful structure, culminating in a broad yet contained experience. 95/100
DuMol Finn Pinot Noir 2022 Russian River Valley
Although not sourced from a single vineyard, this revered wine combines grapes from Bressay Block 7 (Calera) on Goldridge sand and another leased vineyard containing more clay in its soil (33%). The production process is marked by full destemming and exclusive use of free-run juice which results in a mere 700 cases. The bouquet is intense, featuring dark aromas of black cherries and spices underlined by a subtle earthy undertone. The palate is noteworthy for its substantial concentration, smooth, sweet cherry and berry flavors with a touch of apricot, and significant, yet well-integrated tannic structure. The wine delights with earthy and iodine nuances, offering great depth and a luxurious silkiness, making it enjoyable now with potential for aging. The sheer concentration showcased is remarkable. 96/100
DuMol Flax Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Russian River Valley
Nestled on volcanic hillsides with two blocks originating in 1996 planted with Pommard (UCD4), on red volcanic clays that are friable ascending from tough soil conditions which demand grace in maintenance. Employing light extraction methods, and situated in the classic Middle Reach overlooking the river — a segment famed for elevating California Pinot Noir. This wine is lush yet well-defined, featuring a delightful core of sweet red cherry and wild strawberry, complemented by a mineral twist and raspberry brightness, all contributing to an excellently defined profile. It stands as a remarkable wine. 96/100
DuMol Jentoft Vineyard Ryan Pinot Noir 2018 Russian River Valley
Initiated in collaboration with the Duttons in 2007 using their vine material, this plot features shallow hillside soils encased by dense vegetation. The vineyard hosts a Swan Calera massale mix, producing a dark, brooding, and complex profile highlighted by spicy, meaty tones alongside black cherry and blackberry hints. This wine portrays a complex, layered structure with a rich core of sweet fruits bordered by fine spicy notes. The ensemble is balanced yet rich, offering additional herbaceous, olive, and iodine savory layers. 95/100
DuMol Dutton-Jentoft Vineyard Ryan Pinot Noir 2020 Russian River Valley
This wine, harvested 2-3 days post the outset of a fire located 15 miles away, carries an exquisite balance between sweetness and savory qualities. It showcases flavors of raspberry and cherry, mingled with notes of olive and delicate spices. The composition is detailed, featuring rich tones of black cherry and strawberry, structured by a fine texture. There is a pleasing crunch present, and finishing touches include subtle notes of mint and dried herbs. Truly refined. 95/100