Simon Field MW greets the house’s latest release of its prestige cuvée from a cool vintage and its new series of cuvées “revealed by a changing climate”.
Ruinart has joined the party—the very deluxe party with fellow guests such as Roederer, Moët & Chandon, Krug, and Jacquesson, the party that dares to defy the hegemony of Non-Vintage Champagne built on the paradox of putative consistency, the party hitherto dependent on the reassurance of the familiar, of the house style, and therefore of a focus on brand equity. Its new Blanc Singulier label is the first addition to the Ruinart portfolio in more than two decades.
Ruinart uses the name Singulier to distinguish different cuvées of blanc de blancs, although the generic, “consistent” blanc de blancs will still exist and will still make up the majority of its production (at least for a while), as with Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial, which bestrides the much smaller Moët Collection. The best of both worlds, one may think. And one may also think that the name Singulier is a little more helpful than, say, “edition” or “collection.” Individuality is key here, after all, and has come so sharply into focus of late, according to cellar master Frédéric Panaïotis, because of the recent radical changes of climate evidenced in his region. Indeed, even the label of the Singulier is chiseled with the words, “A singular expression of Chardonnay revealed by changing climate.” The Singulier series, will, according to Frédéric, unfurl to reflect the rhythm of the years, thereby capturing the essence of all that Ruinart has stood for since 1729, encapsulated by the desire to absorb and to reflect “the freshness and the luminosity of the Chardonnay grape.”
Frédéric humorously likens the climate of Champagne during years like 2018 and 2019 to the typically warmer region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, noticing that while budbreak hasn’t shifted much, the flowering dates have moved earlier by about a decade, subsequently shortening the interval between flowering and harvest from a traditional 100 days to about 90 days. The occurrence of August harvests, under longer daylight and intensive sunlight, influences the acid development, particularly malic acid, and the ripeness level, affecting the must structure and winemaking approaches. Frédéric acknowledges the visible signs of climate change, differing markedly between vintages like 2013, 2021, and 2018, and hence has introduced the Singulier series to showcase this variation.
Panaïotis expresses concern about potential alcohol levels exceeding 11% at harvest, considering levels around 10% as acceptable if acidity remains stable. He believes that the distinct structure of Champagne’s chalk soil and current precipitation patterns support the wine’s quality, maintaining necessary tension in the musts and wines during and after the tirage. Ruinart currently has no intent to halt malolactic fermentation or significantly alter the elévage regime, with some aid from the use of reserve wines, such as the perpetual reserve initiated for Singulier, although its application has been somewhat conservative to date. Frédéric reflects on the shifting climate categorization of Champagne from “cool” to “moderate,” using the Huglin Index as evidence, and stresses the evolving challenges of a condensed growing period. He advises against drawing parallels with historic warm years like those of the mid-20th century, suggesting the unpredictability of nature and the unique conditions of recent years, including a challenging outlook for 2024.
The inaugural Singulier cuvée from 2018 was so limited in production that it was initially only available in the US and parts of the French market, predominantly through hospitality venues. Its successor, the 2019 vintage, expanded its distribution to include the UK. This series marks the first new Ruinart cuvée in two decades, designed to encapsulate and retain the increasingly pronounced aromatics and intricate texture of Chardonnay. The S19 harvest incorporates grapes from 20 different crus, primarily from Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs, among others. Approximately 23% of the blend consists of reserve wines started in 2017, with half of that aged in oak. Released in spring 2024 without dosage, contrasting with the generic blanc de blancs. The small-scale production signals continued releases for the 2020 and 2022 vintages, skipping 2021 and 2023. This new addition to the Ruinart range promises an exciting future while facing the challenge of maintaining freshness in increasingly warm conditions.
And now for a notable comparison to the other new release, the 2013 Dom Ruinart composed entirely of Chardonnay. This vintage, gaining reputation clout, marks a stark contrast in its neat classicism, particularly set against the subsequent warmer vintages. The 2013 vintage, reminiscent of the 1988 vintage due to its delayed cycle and harvest extending into October, is a favorite of Frédéric’s as a recall to the older style. Predominantly from the Côte des Blancs (80%), the Dom stands differentiated from the Singulier. It has benefited from an extended tirage of nine years and, as of 2020, aging on cork—a method preferred by Frédéric for its contribution to the wine’s long-term progression. Frédéric humorously refers to this wine as his “Chablis,” acknowledging the cooler conditions yet impressive potential alcohol at harvest of 9.9 degrees, balanced by a substantial total acidity of 8.4g/l. The balance is crucial, a deciding factor in not producing this wine in 2008 or 2012, which he found too austere for Chardonnay. The 2013 release is celebrated as his vin de plaisir, akin to a Corton-Charlemagne. It was disgorged in February 2023 with a dosage of 5.5g/l, a notable contrast to the brut nature style of Singulier. Querying about the production scale, Frédéric mentions that it accounts for only 2% of Ruinart’s total output, a modest share compared to other productions. Not huge in volume, certainly less than another notable Dom.
This was an enlightening tasting with Frédéric, showcasing the immense variability and adaptability of Chardonnay under distinct conditions. The pronounced differences eloquently argue for the newly introduced Singulier cuvée, illustrating that diversity can emerge from singularity, all while upholding Ruinart’s distinguished identity focused on top-tier Chardonnay.
LVMH, London; July 3, 2024
Ruinart Blanc Singulier Edition 18
(100% Chardonnay; 20% perpetual reserve; dosage 0g/l; disgorged March 2023)
A rich gilded wine, deep of color and profound of intent. An intriguing nose marries umami, honeysuckle, and even a touch of lavender. There are tropical elements entwined with lemongrass and sourdough on the palate, an expressive, almost phenolic texture, and a hint of bitterness on the finish. Robust and gastronomic, the heady vintage conditions tamed but clearly evidenced. | 93
Ruinart Blanc Singulier Edition 19
(100% Chardonnay; 23% perpetual reserve; dosage 0g/l; disgorged March 2024)
Appreciably different from its forebear; there is more precision and focus here. Lighter in hue, an initial reduction soon dissipated, with a legacy of green and citric fruit. A soft, gently honeyed texture and more red-fruit character than one has the right to expect from a blanc de blancs (a function of youth in all probability). Thereafter, the white fruits take over, spice and smoke in support; also jasmine and a sturdy chalky subtext, once again betraying youth and potential in equal measure. This one will be fascinating to track, especially over the next three to five years. | 94
2013 Dom Ruinart
(100% Chardonnay; dosage 5.5g/l; disgorged February 2023)
A distinguished ocher-green color presents itself, paired with fine bubbles and a suggestive aroma hinting at an evening by the fire, earthy peat, tart honey, and the fall season. Truly captivating! Tasting reveals lemongrass, complemented by touches of nectarine, mace, and mirabelle plum, followed by white pepper and a whisper of cardamom. This complexity is supported by aging with cork, enhancing its profile. The wine showcases a rare crystalline elegance reminiscent of the finest old-school Champagnes: nuanced, gentle, concise, and exceptionally brilliant. | 96+