Website: https://www.yangarra.com/
The narrative of Yangarra is deeply intertwined with the resurgence of Grenache as a prominent vine in Australia. The McLaren Vale region stands as the epitome of this revival, renowned for producing stellar Grenache wines.
The history of Grenache in Australia is underscored by its introduction during the nascent phases of viticulture in the nation. Grenache was among the initial varieties brought to Australia by James Busby in 1832. Born in Scotland, Busby moved to New South Wales at the age of 23 in 1824. Before relocating, he had already begun his education in viticulture and subsequently visited France and Spain in 1831 to investigate renowned wine regions. During this trip, documented in his work ‘Journal of a Tour, Through Some of the Vineyards of Spain and France‘ published in 1833, he collected numerous vine cuttings. He meticulously packed these cuttings in a blend of moss, sand, and soil, ensuring 363 specimens survived and reached the Sydney botanic gardens. Among these, Grenache flourished and eventually spread to South Australia. It is documented that the first Grenache vineyard was established in McLaren Vale in 1838.
In his writings, Busby also provided insights on Grenache:
‘Black skin, very thick, but yielding less colour than that of the preceding [Carignan]. This grape by itself would yield a sweet wine. Cavoleau adds of this grape that it is rich in saccharine matter and strongly imprinted with aroma.’
Grenache became popular, and in 1862, Ebenezer Ward, a prominent wine critic from Adelaide, observed that Grenache was ‘thriving better than any other kind.’ It had found its niche in South Australia, where the climatic conditions similar to its Mediterranean origins supported its growth.
Advancing to the 1970s, the movement towards table wines from fortified wines, which had historically prevailed in Australia’s wine scene, did not favor Grenache. In 1979, 72000 tons of Grenache were harvested, a number that diminished to 15000 tons by 2012. As vineyard acreage in Australia expanded significantly in the 1990s, Grenache’s share of the total vineyard plantation diminished dramatically (virtually no new plantings of Grenache), recording merely over 1% with 1500 hectares. The iconic, warm areas of South Australia received less focus as interest shifted towards cooler regions. Also, within South Australia itself, the spotlight turned to the robust, more intensely fruity wines produced from Shiraz, and even Cabernet Sauvignon.
However, the trend is now shifting, and with the rising interest in terroir-expressive red wines that need not be deep and dark, it’s being recognized that McLaren Vale Grenache from premium sites constitutes one of Australia’s distinguished wine styles. Notably, Yangarra with their High Sands Grenache (retailing at a robust A$325) is spearheading this renewed interest. Intriguingly, ten years ago, Yangarra’s sales comprised 80% Shiraz and 20% Grenache. Currently, they utilize all their Grenache, selling some Shiraz grapes. Over time, with new plantings developing, they anticipate producing more Grenache than Shiraz.
During a recent visit to Australia, I had the opportunity to closely explore Yangarra Estate with insights from Peter Fraser, the winemaker and general manager, and Michael Lane, the viticulturist. Both have been integral to the estate since 2000. Yangarra spans 170 hectares, with 90 hectares devoted to vineyards, and has shown tremendous development over the years. The current range of Yangarra wines is truly outstanding.
The estate is divided into three distinct areas. Near the winery lie alluvial soils where the grapes produced are generally sold, although the Mourvèdre variety thrives exceptionally well in this part.
At the heart of the estate is an ironstone ridge that supports a diverse array of crops, including the white varieties Piquepoul, Clairette, Viognier, and Bourboulenc.
Another section features sandy soils that homes the High Sands block, containing bush vines of Grenache planted back in 1947. This area is noted for having the largest dry-grown bush vine Grenache in Australia.
A film of the visit:
The farming approach is biodynamic, transitioning from conventional methods which once heavily relied on herbicides, leaving the land starkly white. The shift to organic occurred in 2008, followed by a noticeable initial decline in yield. To combat this, they began composting in 2011, the same year they received organic certification, applying 40 cubic meters of compost per hectare annually.
Our wine tasting session was conducted with Peter in the newly constructed tasting room.
“2011 was a pivotal year for both myself and other winemakers in McLaren Vale,” Peter explained. “It was the coldest and wettest vintage I’ve endured. The records show that 1974 and 2011 were similar in terms of rainfall, with 2023 also approaching these levels. We had just finished building our winery in 2010, equipped with extensive sorting mechanisms. We were meticulous in selecting grapes both in the vineyard and winery, ensuring no botrytis contaminated our batches. This challenging vintage inadvertently pushed us towards an earlier harvest and producing wines with lower alcohol content.” This challenging vintage revealed Grenache’s potential and became a blessing in disguise.
‘This opened people’s eyes to what could be done with Grenache,’ says Peter. ‘Although it is considered a warm climate variety, the cooler vintages in the warm climate are the best. The worst vintages are hot ones with a small crop, but they can be tight wines when they are picked earlier. 2015 is a good example of this, with racy acidity.’
‘The problem before 2011 is the notion of physiological ripeness: the tannins needed to taste ripe, the seeds needed to be brown. So people were picking too late: the wines were impressive and deeply coloured, but the wines today are so much more interesting.’
2016 was a mild, normal kind of year that made neat, classic wines: ‘everything was tucked in,’ says Peter.
2017 was cold and dry – ‘a favourite of mine’
“2020 proved to be a challenging year due to its low yield and unusually hot spring, with averages around a ton per hectare. Around Australia Day in late January, we typically observe veraison, but a sudden cold snap set in and persisted, fortunately saving our harvest.”
“2021 marked arguably the most ideal harvest I’ve ever seen. The weather was exceptionally mild, fostering wines with a remarkable elegance and depth.”
Until 2017, small oak barrels were exclusively used; thereafter, alternative aging methods were explored. “However, it remains crucial for the wines to breathe. Without oak, Grenache can lack complexity and the necessary tannins for inclusion in top-tier wines.” The introduction of ceramic eggs began in 2013, but initially, there were too few to implement widely. The first ceramics employed were the Magnum675 made by Phil Sedgman of Living Water Flowforms in Byron Bay, who initially created flow forms for biodynamic wineries. Eventually, production ceased, leaving Yangarra to discover alternatives like Clayver and Drunk Turtle, materials not limited to ceramic. Initially, Clayvers were available in 600 liters costing A$6000 each, but have since evolved to 800 liters at A$14000 each.
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2011
14% alcohol, pH 3.26. Displaying a youthful vigor, this wine offers bright cherry and raspberry flavors, underlined by a pleasing structure and slight tannic grip on the finish. Its vibrant character is intact, showing little sign of aging. Notes of tea and iodine add subtle complexity. A beautifully restrained wine, rated 94/100.
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2015
14.5% alcohol. pH 3.42. Exhibiting delightful signs of maturity, the wine combines earthy and spicy layers with dried herbs, ripe berries, and cherries. Accents of tar, spice, and a hint of iodine enhance its complexity. This vintage has matured fairly rapidly compared to its 2011 counterpart. 93/100
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2016
14.5% alcohol. pH 3.35. The wine’s texture is remarkable, featuring a harmonious blend of pure red cherry and berry fruits, underpinned by firm tannins and lively acidity. It exhibits intense concentration, seamless fruit expression, and finishes with elegance. A truly harmonious and exquisite wine. 95/100
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2017
14% alcohol, pH 3.58. The wine dazzles with its extraordinary aromatic profile that includes floral notes, red and black cherries, with subtle hints of pepper and aniseed. On the palate, it expresses pristine elegance and delicate cherry flavors. Its allure is sophisticated and captivating. 96/100
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2019
A touch austere on the nose, featuring spicy, tarry notes alongside sweet cherry and plum fruits. It presents a somewhat brooding, savory profile. The palate reveals a dense, concentrated character with robust sweet fruit balanced by a stern, spicy structure. With solid tannic backbone, this wine promises potential for aging. 94/100
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2020
14.5% alcohol. pH 3.48. A$300. This vintage carries very floral aromatics, boasting sweet cherries alongside intricate almond and aniseed overtones. The scent is dominated by wonderfully pure and aromatic fruit. On the palate, there’s a significant presence marked by structure and yet, an elegant and pristine fruit character. It radiates expressiveness and intricacy, underpinned by a finely balanced tension and depth, suggesting potential undisclosed layers: currently delightful, yet promising further development. 97/100
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2021
This version displays profound depth, pairing boldness and concentration with elegance. Flavors of red cherries, berries, and plums emerge, supported by a base of spicy notes and robust tannins. Additionally, it offers a charming silky texture from the red cherry fruit complemented by a floral touch and culminates in a long, subtly spiced finish. The composition is harmoniously balanced, manifesting sheer beauty. 96/100
Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2024 (a blend of samples from Clayver)
This wine is youthful, intense, and remarkably charming. Primarily characterized by exquisite perfumed fruit set above a well-structured base of lovely tannins. It demonstrates both vibrancy and exquisite tannic framework, accompanied by commendable acidity. This wine shows great promise of becoming quite exceptional.
Yangarra began crafting Roussanne in 2007. By 2013, they acquired some eggs and embarked on a skin ferment journey. The 2013 Roussanne was unfiltered, marking a shift as subsequent vintages began to incorporate filtration.
Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne 2013
13.5% alcohol. 50% foot-trodden and fermented on skins for 120 days in a ceramic egg. Slightly cloudy. Intense and flavourful. Wax, lime, pear and some aniseed with a slight saltiness. So textural but fresh at the same time. Nice pithy hints on the finish. Very fine and expressive. 93/100
Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne 2015
13.5% alcohol. Two eggs, one skin fermented. Such complexity and texture here. Lovely pear, apricot and white peach with some grapey richness. It’s pure, with just a bit of structure adding a nice foil to the smooth, ripe fruit, and a hint of bitterness on the finish that works well. Such lovely fruit flavours here, verging on the exotic. 95/100
Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne 2017
13% alcohol. Delicate with a mandarin/tangerine edge to the fruity aromatics. The palate is bright and pure with a lime oil edge to the supple fruit, showing a hint of pineapple richness and then finishing smooth and supple. Hints of oiliness on the finish. There’s some delicacy here. 94/100
Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne 2020
13.5% alcohol. This is powerful but balanced with lovely tension to the citrus and peach fruit, with a nice acid line and a bit of structure. It’s really harmonious, and the phenolics frame the ripe fruit really well. Such a beautiful wine: complete and with potential for further development. 95/100
Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne 2021
13.5% alcohol. A delicate yet robust wine, featuring flavors of pear and mandarin intertwined with crystalline citrus accents. It is youthful and fresh, with well-defined tannins that highlight the fruit. The finish is marked by subtle saline notes. 94/100
Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne 2022
13.5% alcohol. This wine presents a complex blend of salty mineral tones and delicate fruit flavors of peach and pear, complemented by citrus and additional notes of mandarin. Despite its richness, it remains tightly wound, hinting at its further potential. 94/100
This wine originates from a north-facing vineyard block enriched with ironstone soils.
Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2010
14.5% alcohol. This Shiraz displays a rich tapestry of spice, earth, and a touch of iodine. Over time, it has developed a coalescence of sweet fruit and refreshing acidity, with subtle earthy nuances and flavors of berry and sweet plum. 91/100
Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2012
Boasts 14.5% alcohol. Exhibiting a bold, blood-like essence with hints of soy sauce and damson combined with smooth berry fruits. Carries a notable richness and ripe flavor profile, accented by notes of iodine and earth. It presents a solid grip on the finish, appearing evolved yet highly appealing. Rated 92/100.
Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2013
Features appreciable density. Its texture is grippy and savory, yet it sparkles with vibrant cherry and plum undertones, finishing with a hint of damson. The wine displays significant intensity and some developmental characteristics. It remains bright and energetic. Rated 92/100.
Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2017
Known for its concentration and vivacity. The flavor profile includes sleek, refreshing berry and cherry elements with a tactile grip. Distinctly salty and vibrant, it offers freshness and sharp focus, culminating in a delightful saltiness. Rated 94/100.
Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2019
Characterized by good ripeness paired with a subtle saltiness and notable concentration. Its supple, fresh taste profile includes iron-like savory notes. The wine is both bright and poised, displaying a graceful elegance and strength. Rated 95/100.
Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2021
Lovely peppery detail as well as sweet floral cherry and berry fruit. There’s a completeness to this wine. Peppery but sleek with black cherries, a touch of saltiness, and lovely energy. Has a touch of savoury iodine detail. Has lushness but also freshness and elegance. 96/100
Yangarra Piquepoul 2024
Bright and tart with nice acidity. Lean and a little chalky with appealing citrus and pear fruit. Very restrained. 91/100
Yangarra Blanc 2023
25% Grenache Blanc, 18% Bourboulenc, 25% Clairette, 22% Piquepoul, 8% Roussanne, 2% Grenache Gris. Fresh, focused and linear with nice bright pear and cherry fruit with such presence: fresh and linear, textural and fine. 93/100
Yangarra Ovitelli Blanc 2020
Mainly Grenache Blanc and Roussanne with some Clairette, Piquepoul and Bourboulenc. 3-4 months on skins, raised in ceramic (Clayver). Lovely texture: powerful with nice weight, some spiciness and a little bit of tannin. Chalky and mineral with some white pepper. The fruit component is citrus and pear. Dry and focused with nice precision and freshness, with appealing mouthfeel. 94/100
Yangarra Ovitelli Blanc 2021
This edition doesn’t include Piquepoul. It features vibrant mandarin suggestions alongside white peach and lemon, presenting an enjoyable texture. It carries a subtle spicy quality, touched with white pepper, and shows a broad dynamic spectrum. 94/100
Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache 2021
Characterized by its suppleness, brightness and juiciness, this wine exhibits remarkable purity. Dominated by fine flavors of red cherry and raspberry, it is distinctly fine and expressive, highlighting the forefront with supple fruit. This is a truly exquisite wine. 95/100