Cornas has evolved from a source of unruly, dark and demanding wines for a small circle of drinkers into a celebrated Northern Rhône appellation. Once overshadowed by Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, it is now prized for its bold Syrah fruit and increasingly approachable tannins.
The appellation’s granite vineyards have expanded considerably: from about 53 hectares in 1971 to roughly 150 hectares today. Much of the recent growth has taken place on higher ground beyond the village, where former pasture and meadowland has been planted with vines. Sites such as Chaban and Les Rieux tend to produce fruit-forward, accessible wines, but their cooler, windier conditions can delay ripening by several weeks compared with the finest slopes. In cool years, these wines may be lighter and more suited to early drinking.
The heart of the appellation
The central hillside faces mostly south, looking toward the ruins of Château de Crussol across the Rhône. This is the Reynards area, which includes sites such as Tézier, Genale and Le Pigeonnier. Reynards forms the basis of Thierry Allemand’s cuvée of that name and contributes significantly to the Clape cuvée.
The soils are largely granite, though they vary from place to place. Tézier has highly decomposed, sandy granite, with pockets of clay and gore farther south. Genale is granite-gneiss, producing ripe wines with fine, velvety tannins. Le Pigeonnier contains clay and tends to give wines that are ripe and relatively low in acidity. Nearby Chaillot has varied soils and can show floral, violet notes when the vintage avoids excessive heat.
These sites contribute to wines from leading producers including Clape, Allemand, Guillaume Gilles, Franck Balthazar, Domaine Lionnet, Domaine Alain Voge and Emmanuelle Verset. Other important vineyards include Les Côtes, Sabarotte, Mazards, Patou and Pied la Vigne. At the appellation’s northeastern edge, Les Arlettes has a small limestone influence.
The vineyards stretch less than three kilometres from north to south, but their sheltered position away from the Rhône’s main north-wind corridor helps them ripen early. Harvest has often begun in the second half of August in recent years. Some producers still use whole-bunch fermentation, while ageing traditionally takes place for 12 to 18 months in large casks, though approaches vary.
Prices have risen sharply over the past decade, making Cornas more sought-after and increasingly common in collectors’ cellars.
Different styles and vintages
The tasting covered a range of vintages and styles. One view was that great Cornas should combine iron-like mineral character, freshness, clearly defined fruit and a firm tannic structure, with floral notes adding complexity. Clape, Lionnet and Franck Balthazar were seen as especially consistent examples of this profile.
Producers such as Chapoutier and Paul Jaboulet Aîné have also improved their approach to harvesting and winemaking in Cornas. Wines from the hot 2018 vintage showed greater regional character than expected, while the 2019s reflected strong sunshine and Mediterranean influence, requiring time for the terroir to emerge. The 2021s offered more access to site character, though one taster found the Clape an exception. The 2022 vintage, rescued by rain in mid-August after heat and drought, has developed into a promising year, with wines gaining depth and length. The 2023s are open, appealing and suited to medium-term cellaring. Looking ahead, 2024 produced delightful fruit, while 2025 yielded rich, exceptionally long wines in a very small harvest.
The panel differed in its assessment. Simon Field found many wines good to very good, but felt some lacked the aromatic elegance of top Côte-Rôtie or the controlled power of fine Hermitage. He particularly praised Franck Balthazar’s 2022 Chaillot. Andrew Jefford was more enthusiastic, judging the overall standard strong and arguing that Cornas has largely left its reputation for toughness and rusticity behind. He praised the energy, perfume, fruit and texture of Northern Rhône Syrah, and felt the appellation could turn warmth into balance and grandeur. He rated the 2022s highly, found the 2023s promising, and particularly enjoyed the 2018 and 2019 wines, while considering 2021 too thin and difficult.