I visited Dynamic Vines in Bermondsey one Saturday morning to explore the wines of Sicus, a fascinating winery located in Bonastre, near Tarragona, Catalunya, Spain. This winery is the brainchild of Eduard Piè, who emphasizes the use of indigenous grape varieties grown organically and fermented in amphorae, known locally as tinajas, made from local clay. Notably, some amphorae are even buried directly in the vineyards.
The farming practices at Sicus are committed to organic methods, with no-till agriculture utilized. The vines thrive on limestone soil, benefiting from a dry farming approach.
Here are some highlights from the tasting:
Sicus Pétillant Naturel A Wine Work Orange (S) 2021
This wine is lively and tangy, featuring bright flavors along with savory notes. It is grippy and phenolic, making it a distinctive and delicious choice. Rating: 90/100.
Sicus Cartoixà Brisat (Orange) 2019
Made from the Xarel.lo grape, this wine is bold and fresh with a stony edge and lively citrus fruit flavors, accompanied by hints of orange peel. It’s bright, tangy, and packed with energy. Rating: 94/100.
Sicus Sumoi 2021
Sourced from a single vineyard called ‘El Roldonar’, this wine is elevated at 185 meters and experiences a strong maritime influence. A calcareous silty soil and the use of whole bunch fermentation contribute to its nicely textured profile, with good acidity and a distinctive cherry fruit warmth. The wine undergoes three months in amphora followed by five months in stainless steel, resulting in a savory finish. Rating: 93/100.
Sicus Garrut 2019
From the ‘La Obaga Del Gojo’ vineyard, located at 220 meters with similar maritime influences, this wine is rich, concentrated, and savory. It features intense flavors and a gripping structure, making it an ideal choice for gastronomic pairings. The wine spends two months in amphora and six months in stainless steel. Rating: 92/100.
For more information about Sicus, visit their website.