During my visit to Domaine Merlin in La Roche-Vineuse, I was struck by a beautiful pebble mosaic resembling a bunch of grapes on the cellar floor. I asked Olivier Merlin about it, and he casually mentioned it was already there when he and his wife Corinne took over the estate in 1987.
I first met Olivier around the year 2000, and he hasn’t changed much since: his friendly demeanor, mustache, and spectacles remain. As his sons Paul and Théo have joined him to help run the expanding domaine, I inquired about the changes he’s seen over the years. While climate change appears to have made red vintages more consistent, Chardonnay has become increasingly concerning, especially after the extreme heat of 2003. Despite still exporting a significant volume, international unrest has led to a slump in demand recently.
As we navigated through his cellars, with dusty bottles lining the shelves that told stories of past consumption, I was greeted by the high vaulted ceilings and stone walls. The warm atmosphere made it feel much like a home rather than just a winery. Over the years, Olivier’s sons have been working alongside him, continuing the family tradition and ensuring that the transition to the next generation is smooth.
As I prepared to photograph him, I sensed Olivier’s discomfort with the camera, but he quickly found a comfortable stance against a stone wall. After a quick session, he surprised me by returning with a bucket and brush to clean the mosaic, showcasing his hands-on approach to both his art and his work.
Olivier remains a testament to the dedication and passion that embodies the wine industry, and his humble acceptance of nature’s control over wine production is reflective of many farmers’ realities.