Marc Millon recently reviewed the book Italianity: The Culture of Italian Wine, authored by Andrea Lonardi MW and Jessica Dupuy, at a masterclass wine tasting during Vinitaly 2026. The event featured a blind tasting of a St-Emilion grand cru and a Merlot from Bolgheri, revealing how a globally planted grape like Merlot can embody uniquely Italian characteristics when cultivated in Tuscany.
Lonardi emphasized that the primary aim of the book is to illustrate the shared identity and regional variations that contribute to making Italian wines distinctly Italian. Dupuy noted that it is more than just a wine guide; it encapsulates the culture and identity of Italy.
The book features a series of short essays written in alternating voices between Lonardi and Dupuy. Lonardi approaches the subject matter with authoritative knowledge stemming from his extensive experience in the wine industry, while Dupuy presents a fresh, inquisitive perspective reflective of her own transformative journey within Italian culture.
Central to the narrative is the exploration of what it means to be Italian, particularly in relation to its wine heritage. Lonardi, who comes from a family of farmers in Valpolicella, recounts how his background informs his deep understanding of not only wine but also the culture and history that it symbolizes. Selling wine, he discovered, was less about the numbers and more about connecting with people and sharing a way of life.
The authors explore the idea of Italianity and how, despite Italy only being unified as a nation in 1861, its diverse cultural identities and rich vinicultural history can be both complex and beautiful. The book touches upon the importance of the “Red Spine of Italianity,” which refers to the prevailing characteristics of Italian red wines connecting the country from north to south.
While the book eloquently details numerous wine regions and grapes like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, Millon notes a lack of coverage regarding southern wines, including prominent varieties such as Aglianico and Montepulciano, which also tell vital stories about Italy’s rich viniculture.
The writing overall is praised for its engaging style, combining knowledge with personal stories that provide readers insight into the broader cultural significance of Italian wines. It appeals to those who wish to appreciate not just the wine itself but the context and soul behind each bottle.
Italianity: The Culture of Italian Wine is positioned to resonate with both wine aficionados and anyone interested in delving deeper into the cultural narratives behind Italy’s celebrated winemaking traditions.
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