The recent unveiling of the 2012 Drappier Éclose marks a pivotal moment for the Champagne house, according to Anthony Rose. This new release isn’t merely an addition to their lineup of prestige cuvées; it signifies a redefinition of long-aged Champagne.
During a dinner with Michel and Hugo Drappier at Hide in London, held amidst the chill of Les Saints de Glace—the traditional last frost of French spring—the significance of Éclose became evident. The new cuvée seeks to express a different perspective on aging Champagne, focusing on élevage rather than the typical reliance on dosage, luxury cues, or sheer opulence. This initiative is anchored by three central ideas: a commitment to low-intervention winemaking, the preservation of freshness amid a warming climate, and the innovative use of an oak egg, known as the Ovum, to enhance texture, complexity, and evolution.
Michel Drappier, who recently completed his 51st harvest, shared that decision-making at the estate remains a collaborative effort among him, his son Hugo, and Hugo’s brother Antoine, the estate’s enologist. Despite the generational transition, the Drappier family exhibits a harmonious approach to winemaking.
The legacy of Michel’s father, André Drappier, greatly influences their practices. André, though he had reservations about some modern techniques, notably supported low-sulfur winemaking. This tradition is maintained today with a focus on creating pleasurable Champagne.
The 2012 Éclose is also an exploration beyond conventional terroir value. It comprises 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, sourced from organically farmed, old vines. All grapes are manually selected to ensure only the best quality is used, reflecting the house’s commitment to pairing meticulous vineyard management with cellar practices aimed at minimizing oxidation.
Michel has expressed a candid view on the impact of climate change, suggesting the benefits currently outweigh the negatives. The house has invested significantly in oak, which helps protect the wine against oxidation, while allowing them to produce unique reserve wines. Enhancements in technique include separate underground stainless-steel tanks for maintaining reserve wines’ freshness.
The Ovum, which symbolizes the house’s experimental spirit, is crafted to facilitate better wine composition through more effective lees circulation. Michel described its purpose pragmatically, emphasizing its role in balancing richness and freshness—elements essential for crafting exquisite Champagne.
Éclose’s journey began with trials in 2010, evolving into what is now seen as a commercial release after years of experimentation. The result promises to deliver the Drappier signature style with an innovative twist—richness paired with the elegance of mineral freshness.
With meticulous attention paid to production details, Éclose is noted for its fine, creamy mousse and a complex flavor profile reminiscent of grand aging Burgundy, while embodying the hallmark freshness of Champagne. Just 3,000 bottles were produced, with only 574 allocated as the première éclosion, indicating its exclusivity.
The launch of Éclose signifies an interesting pivot in the prestige Champagne market, offering a fresh experience for loyal customers and enthusiasts alike. It reflects not only the essence of Drappier’s philosophy but also an acute awareness of the evolving landscape of Champagne production.
Tasting notes reveal a pale gold appearance with aromas ranging from lees to candy apple and nutty undertones, culminating in a beautifully dry and vibrant finish, rated highly at 96 points.