It was a bright, hot Friday in mid-April two years ago when I found myself in the medieval village of St-Guilhem-le-Désert in Hérault, France. The family encouraged me to take a long-desired path, urging me to return within two hours. The village, home to only 230 residents, boasts a rich history dating back to the founding of the Abbey of Gellone in 804 CE. Amidst the backdrop of the Hérault river and the secluded Verdus tributary, I wandered up a lonely path, drawn by the allure of the wilderness.
To my surprise, I stumbled upon an old hermitage marked by a sign requesting respect for the silence suited for prayer and meditation. This landscape of Languedoc, with its rugged limestone formations, felt more confining than embracing—ideal for those seeking solitude, spirituality, or even a place to cultivate vines.
In my exploration of this remote region, I felt a connection to the original Burgundian essence: the pursuit of spiritual nourishment that once led monks to create vineyards. A significant figure in this landscape is Frère Marie-Pâques of St-Barthélemy, a monk who aids young growers in establishing vineyards in the Upper Orb Valley, and whose wild-boar pâté is nothing short of exquisite. Nearby, one can find diverse communities dedicated to meditation and retreat, including Orthodox monasteries and Europe’s largest Buddhist temple.
The catalyst for my encounter with Frère Marie-Pâques was Cédric Guy, a thoughtful wine grower. After leaving a successful partnership at Abbaye Sylva Plana, Cédric sought the cooler climate of Joncels in the Upper Orb Valley, where the remnants of the previously established Abbaye de St-Pierre aux Liens still linger. Here, he found potential for winemaking that would transcend mere survival and rather celebrate the land’s profound character. His work, alongside Frère Marie-Pâques, has revived interest in the aging vineyards, thrusting a call for youth to engage in winemaking before the ancient viticulture is lost forever.
The Upper Orb Valley has proven favorable for grape varieties like Chardonnay, which will soon utilize the mention complémentaire of Monts d’Avène. Notably, the DSLS wine crafted by Cédric stands out as a barrel-fermented Petite Arvine, showcasing a unique blend of scents and flavors.
This striking wine, pale gold in appearance, yields notes of pear, iris, and orange peel. Tasting it reveals a surprising richness paired with a bright, lasting acidity. As Cédric articulates, it feels as if Alsace met Burgundy within this glass, combining the best attributes of both wine regions into a singular experience, rich in character and refreshing in complexity.
Cédric’s journey in the region has spanned 25 years, during which climate changes have enabled him to produce captivating still wines instead of reluctant sparklers. The name of his estate, inspired by a geologist’s words, foreshadows the fruitful future he envisions.
The DSLS cuvée is steeped in a vibrant story of environment, tradition, and the quest for excellence, holding the spirit of both heritage and innovation, calling to those eager to discover the essence rooted within the hills of Languedoc.