Mission to Mercurey
Sarah Marsh MW embarks on a journey through the vineyards of Mercurey, guided by Amaury Devillard, president of the Mercurey Growers’ Association. Over the past ten years, Mercurey has witnessed a notable elevation in wine quality due to significant vineyard investments and a shift in focus from quantity to quality. The soil composition, rich in limestone, requires meticulous management to produce wines of sophisticated elegance instead of rustic intensity.
The energy within the village is palpable, driven by a new generation of winemakers committed to revitalizing previously overlooked climats. Esteemed domaines like Michel Juillot and Tupinier-Bautista are reinvigorated by fresh approaches, while newcomers such as Laurent Dufouleur and ex-Faiveley winemaker Julien Bordet are producing noteworthy wines. Major négociants like Faiveley and Albert Bichot have played a vital role in enhancing Mercurey’s reputation.
Mercurey itself is shaped like a rough bowl, centered around a village with a population of 1,200. Its geological structure features varying exposures and microclimates, creating unique growing conditions slightly cooler than those found in Côte d’Or due to the prevailing westerly winds.
Mercurey, covering 846 hectares (2,090 acres), sees 650 hectares (1,610 acres) under vine, with Chardonnay making up 15% of the plantings—an increase of 5% in the last 15 years. Advocates like Jean-Philippe Archambaud assert the potential for excellent white Mercurey wines, particularly from specific premier cru sites.
Marsh and Devillard navigate through premier crus, observing the diverse soil compositions that yield different expressions in the wines. Dynamic variations exist throughout the vineyard slope, with reds notable for their roundness and character.
The area boasts 32 premier crus, with differing characteristics ranging from robust and fruit-driven to elegant and nuanced. The expression of wines from these crus varies significantly, illustrating the region’s intricate terroir. Among the noteworthy premier cru wines are those from Clos du Roi, showcasing a full-bodied style, while La Mission à Chamirey’s wines reflect distinct soil characteristics.
With many producers making individual cuvées, the blending reflects the complexity of terroir, introducing layers through distinctive vineyard components. The developing palate of Mercurey has led to increasing recognition, as tasting opportunities abound at local establishments like the Caveau Divin, offering insights into 80% of the area’s producers.
Mercurey recently commemorated the centenary of its appellation delimitation from 1923, marking a significant evolution in its wine quality and reputation. The commitment to fine wine continues to grow in this historic region, promising an attractive future for both producers and wine enthusiasts.