Thierry Meyer, Vincenzo Arnese, and Claire Thevenot MS conducted a tasting of 81 Alsace grand cru Rieslings from the 2012 and 2022 vintages. Out of these, two were deemed Exceptional, eight Outstanding, and 54 Highly Recommended. The tasting revealed the distinct climatic characters of the vintages and displayed the strong terroir typicity from select grands crus.
Both vintages showcased high scores, with 79% of entries scoring 90 points or more, and 22 achieving scores between 93 and 94. The expertise from renowned growers was evident in both vintages, but lesser-known producers also delivered commendable quality at more affordable prices.
In the hot 2022 vintage, hilltop vineyards and marl-based terroirs thrived, particularly those at higher elevations. The wines from this vintage are already drinking well, while the cooler 2012 vintage required fully ripened fruit for positive evolution.
Critics noted that while some wines began to fade and taste of ‘old Riesling’, others displayed greater character with added aromatic complexity from aging. Claire Thevenot emphasized the required balance between terroir minerality and fruit for Alsace grand cru wines, which is crucial for their aging potential. The consistency of quality across both vintages was praised, highlighting the rieslings’ excellent drinkability and showcasing the potential of the Alsace grand cru appellation.
Producers such as Furstentum, Hengst, Kitterlé, Rangen, and Schlossberg were noted for their unique terroir characteristics. Overall, it was advised that if a wine is dominated by its varietal expression, it may be wise to consume it while it is still fresh.
For pairing, the judges suggest that the grand cru Rieslings would work wonderfully with Asian cuisines like Chinese, Japanese, or Thai. The 2022 vintages handle spice better, while the 2012s are suited to umami-rich dishes. Seafood, particularly subtly spiced grilled lobster or sushi, could complement these wines nicely.
The tasting served as a reminder of the exceptional quality of Alsace grand cru Rieslings and how they reflect the unique terroirs and climatic influences of their respective vintages.