In a quaint village in central France, the New Year is celebrated with a unique and raucous tradition: families gather to hurl their empty festive bottles against a designated wall near the Hotel de Ville. This tradition, part of the revelry known as réveillon, sees a heap of shattered glass building up which is later cleared away by the local council, presumably for recycling.
Reflecting on this tradition, renowned wine critic Hugh Johnson shares his insights on the evolving wine market, particularly regarding sparkling wines. As families increasingly look beyond traditional Champagne, they are embracing diverse sparkling options from countries like Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.
He recalls his own personal celebrations, including his 60th birthday spent in the Schramsberg caves, where he appreciates the richness of local sparkling wines. Johnson emphasizes the growing confidence among winemakers globally, asserting that this shift toward innovative bubbles marks an exciting trend within the wine community.
The evolution of wine taste is not just limited to sparkling options, as Johnson highlights the importance of appreciating all wine forms. He expresses solidarity with the dedicated growers who take risks with changing weather and market dynamics, reinforcing the idea that wine culture encourages exploration and appreciation over pretension.
As the world of wine continues to change, Johnson’s observations offer a perspective rooted in tradition while simultaneously celebrating a more adventurous approach to winemaking that resonates with contemporary consumers.