If anyone were to create a top ten list of South African wine producers, Boekenhoutskloof would undoubtedly rank among the very best. Established thirty years ago by Marc Kent, the winery began with a Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1996 vintage, a time when South African wine was emerging from its post-apartheid transformation under Nelson Mandela.
Kent initially aspired to be a pilot, but a shift in the political landscape redirected his career path towards winemaking, a decision he now embraces wholeheartedly. His foray into Semillon from the old vines of Franschhoek soon followed, leading to what would become a legendary wine and laying the groundwork for an extensive vertical tasting back to 2007. Furthermore, his Syrah production, which began in 1997 from a now-defunct vineyard in Somerset West, redefined the variety in South Africa with its impressive aging potential despite a high pH level.
In 2005, during a wine trip to South Africa, the impact of Kent’s wines struck a chord, showcasing the evolution of the country’s wine culture. Throughout his career, Kent has expertly managed his portfolio, establishing a tiered structure with accessible wines like Porcupine Ridge, the highly coveted Chocolate Block, and elite selections from Boekenhoutskloof and his Swartland estate, Porseleinberg.
Today, Kent’s operations span six properties across four regions, with a significant life change prompting his move to Portugal. Despite residing mainly in Coimbra and focusing on winemaking with his partner Rita Marques at their label Vinhos Invencível, he continues to contribute to Boekenhoutskloof’s success, allowing his team to flourish in his absence.
Head winemaker Gottfried Mocke is key in maintaining the winery’s quality as Kent still oversees the blending of all wines. With the departure of Callie Louw, who led Porseleinberg for 15 vintages, a seamless transition was ensured with Eben Meiring taking the helm.
The Semillon produced at Boekenhoutskloof is crafted from some of the oldest vineyards in the region, reflecting a style inspired by the great whites of Pessac and Graves. A focus on oxidative handling has enhanced the wine’s aging profiles, while recent adjustments include the incorporation of Sauvignon and the introduction of ancient Muscat for natural acidification. The aging process in both new oak and concrete eggs further nurtures its complexity and balance.
The tasting of various vintages speaks for itself:
- Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2007: Rich and textured, with notes of honey and lanolin, showing excellent focus and finesse (95/100).
- Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2009: Crystalline and pure, this vintage holds layers of complexity and citrus-driven freshness (96/100).
- Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2017: A harmonious blend showcasing layered white peach and subtle toast influences (96/100).
- Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2019: Characterized by spicy and mineral notes, this wine promises a graceful aging future (95/100).
- Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2023: Exhibiting floral nuances and fresh, layered complexity, it sets the stage for future evolution (95/100).
The winery also features impressive new releases in Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, highlighting its commitment to quality and distinction, solidifying Boekenhoutskloof’s esteemed reputation on both local and international stages.