Each year, Herdade do Rocim hosts an amphora wine day, gathering wineries from around the globe that produce wine in clay. The 2025 edition marked my third attendance, showcasing diverse wines with a strong focus on the Alentejo region, where the talha tradition has been effectively revitalized. This year, I noticed that winemakers are becoming more adept at working with clay. Below are my tasting notes, organized by non-Portuguese wines followed by those from Portugal.
Non-Portuguese Wines
Château Petit Guillot, Bordeaux
Fabien Guillotin, the owner and winemaker, presented two amphora wines made in 750-litre Tavas.
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Hors des Clous Sauvignon Blanc 2024: After 4 weeks on skins in stainless steel and a year in amphora, this wine is complex and bright, featuring citrus and ripe apple flavors, with a supple, juicy finish. Score: 93/100.
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Hors des Clous Merlot 2022: This Merlot, made from 44-year-old vines, is ripe and pure, displaying lovely texture and density with a slightly stony edge. Score: 93/100.
Carsin/Charivari Wines, Bordeaux
Nea Berglund makes her wine from a family estate in Cadillac, now employing a more natural winemaking approach despite some pushback from her father. She presented two standout amphora wines.
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L’Amour Fragile 2021 Vin de France: This Sauvignon Blanc exhibits beautiful aromatics with floral notes and a lively, textural palate. Score: 94/100.
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Carsin Amphora Carmenere 2024: With a nose of chalky white pepper and cherries, this wine is supple and spicy, showcasing the complex flavors of an almost extinct varietal in Bordeaux. Score: 94/100.
Cantina del Malandrino, Etna, Sicily
Specializing in monovarietal wines, Cantina del Malandrino blends various clay types in their winemaking process, avoiding added sulfites entirely.
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Bradamante 2023: A bold Cataratto wine with refreshing acidity and grainy structure. Score: 93/100.
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Lupo Cappuccio 2022: Lively with intense berry fruit, this wine offers a refreshing natural profile. Score: 93/100.
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A Franco 2020: Showcasing stony minerality and elegance, this wine is vibrant with a firm acid line. Score: 94/100.
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Rosso Volcanico 2021: Featuring Nerello Mascalese with a mineral edge, this wine also delivers elegance and complexity. Score: 94/100.
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di Ego 2021: A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio, aged in amphora and acacia for a round and juicy finish. Score: 94/100.
Tezi, Georgia
After an impromptu visit to a tasting in Georgia, Peter and Dareen Evans formed a winery partnership using traditional qvevris.
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Tsolikouri 2022: This wine has a fresh herbal twist with a unique texture, showing great expressiveness. Score: 93/100.
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Chinuri 2022: Featuring 30 days on skins, this wine balances freshness with well-structured acidity. Score: 93/100.
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Kisi Magrani 2023: Intense and spicy, this wine captures marmalade and peach flavors beautifully. Score: 95/100.
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Kisi Akhmeta 2023: A cloudy orange wine with vibrant spice notes, though there were concerns regarding potential faults. Score: TBD.
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Mtsvane 2022: Supple and dry, showcasing hints of mint and good tannins. Score: 93/100.
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Saperavi 2023: Intense yet mellow, this vivid wine boasts blackberry nuances with a bold finish. Score: 93/100.
Vicchiomaggio, Chianti Classico, Italy
Located in Greve in Chianti, this winery showcased one amphora wine.
- Amphiarao 2023 Rosso Toscano: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Sangiovese, this wine is juicy and expressive, offering a captivating freshness and a slight earthy character. Score: 94/100 (€35 retail in Italy).
The amphora wine day continues to demonstrate the potential of clay in winemaking, attracting global producers to this unique celebration of tradition and innovation.