There’s natural wine, and then there’s exceptional natural wine, as I experienced during my visit to Viñedos Herrera Alvarado with Carolina Alvarado and Arturo Herrera. Nestled in the picturesque Marga Marga Valley near Quilpué, Chile, this vineyard embraces a philosophy deeply rooted in the local ecosystem.
Originally part of the Casablanca Valley, this vineyard has transformed from its traditional varieties—Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir—into a natural wine project that harmonizes with the surrounding Mediterranean climate. The unique schlerophyllous forest, capable of thriving in drought, has influenced their approach, prompting them to incorporate local vegetation in the vineyard.
Adopting a permaculture-style method, they focus on biodiversity. After encountering challenges from birds and rabbits, allowing grasses to flourish helped balance the ecosystem, which has led to nests and small snakes returning to the vineyard. The forest not only provides a natural climate buffer but also fosters beneficial mycorrhizal relationships.
The traditional winery reflects the local heritage, built with red-clay adobe, utilizing cow hides for fermenting red wines and bamboo screens for hand destemming. They take pride in being part of a cooperative, producing zero-additive wines. The Marga Marga Valley, with a winemaking history dating back to 1586, sees their practice as continuing a legacy of family-led traditions.
A unique process exists where sticks from the forest are used to create compost beds, promoting the aeration and introduction of vital mycorrhizal fungi. The vineyard thrives in self-sufficiency, with all necessary resources sourced locally.
The Wines
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Vinos Herrera Alvarado Sauvignon Blanc 2023: A rich, textured wine made in rauli barrels with complex notes of apple and pear, complemented by a hint of spice and oxidized character. Rated 94/100.
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Vinos Herrera Alvarado Oro Negro País 2021: This cherry-red wine, fermented in cow hide, reveals lively, spicy acidity with a healthy dose of red fruits. Rated 93/100.
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Vinos Herrera Alvarado Rancio Sauvignon Blanc 2020: Offering textures of cherry, marmalade, and honey, this oxidative style wine presents layers of complexity. Rated 92/100.
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Vinos Herrera Alvarado Pinot Noir 2017: Pale and nuanced, it showcases fine spice, rich acidity, and a vibrant vitality. Rated 93/100.
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Vinos Herrera Alvarado Pinot Noir 2021: Lively and aromatic, this wine balances vivid fruit with a subtle spice, achieving a delightful natural sweetness. Rated 93/100.
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Vinos Herrera Alvarado Cabernet Sauvignon 2020: Deeply colored and flavored with rich blackcurrants and spices, it stands out with its bold character. Rated 93/100.
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Vinos Herrera Alvarado Sauvignon Blanc Amphora 2021: Macerated on skins, this offering presents hints of mint and clay, balanced with rich pear and apple fruit. Rated 94/100.
This vineyard epitomizes how thoughtful, natural practices can enhance the quality of wine while fostering a deeper connection with the environment.