Winemaker Virginia Willcock celebrated Vasse Felix’s 50th anniversary by presenting a selection of nine vintages of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon in London. Established in 1967 by Dr. Tom Cullity, Vasse Felix is the oldest wine estate in Western Australia. Cullity started with just a couple of acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Shiraz, taking inspiration from Bordeaux’s terroir while adapting to the unique maritime climate of Wilyabrup.
However, the estate’s early days were fraught with challenges. A devastating crop disease in 1971 led Cullity to train a falcon to scare off birds, a tale that is now part of the estate’s lore and branding. Despite skepticism from locals who viewed wine-growing as a delusional endeavor, Cullity persevered, aided by staff like David Gregg, who introduced cultured yeasts and better winemaking techniques.
The estate changed ownership in the 1980s, and new investments led to a more commercial style of winemaking that sought to appeal to evolving market tastes. Clive Otto, a pivotal figure in the 1990s, focused on producing richer wines by introducing new oak barrels and different blends.
Virginia Willcock took over in 2008 and aimed to create a lighter and more elegant style of Cabernet Sauvignon, moving away from blending with Shiraz or Merlot. Her approach favors using indigenous yeasts and small-batch fermentation, reflecting a confident understanding of the region’s capabilities. Under her leadership, Vasse Felix has returned to its roots while utilizing newer techniques, resulting in wines that highlight the estate’s terroir.
Recent vintages showcase this evolution, with increasing amounts of Malbec being incorporated back into the blends, connecting to Cullity’s original vision. Virginia’s interpretation has led to a distinct style characterized by freshness, elegance, and a clear expression of the Wilyabrup landscape. The wines produced under her guidance are becoming known for their approachable balance and nuanced flavors, demonstrating a successful embodiment of Vasse Felix’s heritage.