To be labeled a "cult wine" is a tantalizing pursuit, characterized by the quest for that elusive, unparalleled beverage. Wine producers equipped with expert enologists navigate mythical realms in search of this extraordinary wine, creating a narrative filled with intrigue and excitement. Some producers chase after creatures of legend, while others focus on a more tangible goal, such as the impressive Il Caberlot from Podere Il Carnasciale.
Il Caberlot is crafted from a grape believed to be a natural hybrid of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, although this has never been scientifically verified. Describing it as “the most famous cult wine you’ve probably never heard of,” the late Nicolas Belfrage MW highlighted its uniqueness. This special wine is produced in Valdarno di Sopra, a picturesque region in Tuscany with a complicated history of winemaking that dates back to Etruscan times. Although Valdarno di Sopra was awarded DOC status in 2011, its wines have historically struggled to carve out an identity amidst the myriad of Tuscan varietals.
The owners of Podere Il Carnasciale, Moritz Rogosky and his family, have embraced the mystery surrounding Il Caberlot’s grape lineage. Initially sourced from abandoned vineyards during the 1950s, this proprietary grape variety fosters deep-rooted connections to the land, while still holding on to an air of enigma. The Rogoskys acquired the estate in 1972 and have transformed it into a highly-regarded producer of sought-after wines.
In stark contrast to the era when Il Caberlot was introduced, the contemporary wine scene in Tuscany now favors authenticity over mere imitation of Bordeaux styles. Winemakers are increasingly attentive to the unique characteristics of their specific sites, opting for indigenous varieties while crafting wines that truly represent their terroir. The conversation around wine quality has shifted, leaning towards expressions that encapsulate the spirit of their surroundings rather than strictly adhering to pre-established notions of excellence.
Il Caberlot is primarily released in magnum format, with a limited number of stand-alone bottles available for restaurants. Approximately 2,000 magnums are produced annually, accompanied by its second wine, Il Carnasciale. Despite its unfamiliar varietal composition, the allure of Il Caberlot persists for collectors and enthusiasts interested in the complexities of Tuscany’s offerings.
Transitioning from an emphasis on distinctiveness, wine drinkers are now seeking superior representations that reflect their local origins with a careful production approach. As the Rogoskys continue to cultivate this iconic wine, their dedication to the legacy is evident. The core elements of beauty, authenticity, and an ever-present hint of mystery define not just Il Caberlot but the philosophy behind its creation.
Tasting Notes:
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Il Carnasciale 2021 (13.5% ABV): A medium-ruby wine with aromas of juicy Santa Rosa plum, enriched by notes of Tuscan cigar and herbs. Elegant with a touch of dry tannins. Rating: 91
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Il Caberlot 2020 (13.5% ABV): Impenetrable ruby-colored, showcasing herbal nuances and a vibrant acidity. A remarkably light body with fine-grained tannins suggests this wine is evolving beautifully. Rating: 93+
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Il Caberlot 2015 (13.5% ABV): Dark and complex, with black cherry and mint leading the aromatic profile. The palate boasts savory notes, maintaining a medium body with chewy tannins. A masterpiece of intensity. Rating: 95
As the appreciation for Tuscan wines continues to grow, the future of Il Caberlot shines brighter than ever, no longer just a contender for cult status, but a celebrated piece of the tapestry of Tuscan winemaking.