In January 2025, renowned Italian chef Giorgio Locatelli unexpectedly shut down his London restaurant, Locanda Locatelli, after 23 years of operation. The closure was so sudden that it left many patrons with reservations disappointed, as they were informed the restaurant could no longer serve them. Reports suggest that ongoing discussions about rent culminated in a review that made the location financially unviable, a situation not uncommon in London’s restaurant landscape where rental costs can be exorbitant.
With the closing of such a significant establishment, it was expected that a rich assortment of wines—especially high-end allocations—would be left behind. Virgilio Gennaro, the wine consultant who had sourced wines for Locanda since 2008, reached out to Mick O’Connell, who had recently taken charge of the wine auction division at Bonhams. Gennaro offered an array of exquisite Italian wines from the restaurant’s cellar for auction, leading to a sale event online, which will conclude on October 14th.
To highlight these notable wines, Mick hosted a tasting lunch that included prominent figures in the wine community. Participants included Andrew Johnson, Brad Horne, Nelson Pari, and Mick himself, along with a guest appearance by Gennaro.
Highlighted Wines from the Tasting
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Ca’del Bosco Dosage Zéro Noir 2013, Franciacorta, Italy: A complex and toasty wine with concentrated citrus and subtle nutty notes. Rating: 94/100.
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Cantine Terlano I Primo Grande Cuvée 2018, Alto Adige, Italy: This impactful white wine features a rich blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon, offering layers of melon and peach. Rating: 95/100.
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Gaja Costa Russi 2008, Langhe, Italy: A supple wine with black cherry, blackberry, and herbal notes, showcasing notable depth and complexity. Rating: 94/100.
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Gaja Sorì Tildìn 2008, Langhe, Italy: This wine comes from a vineyard with a focused profile, blending premium dark fruit with spicy notes. Rating: 95/100.
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Sassicaia 1997, Bolgheri, Italy: An exceptional wine, noted for its precision and complexity of flavors, including blackcurrant and herbaceous undertones. Rating: 97/100.
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Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso del Bepi 2008, Veneto, Italy: Featuring concentrated berry flavors and floral aromas, this well-structured wine stands out. Rating: 96/100.
The auction at Bonhams not only presents the opportunity to acquire some of the finest Italian wines but also serves as a poignant reminder of the culinary legacy that Locanda Locatelli represented in London’s vibrant dining scene.
For more details on the auction, you can visit Bonhams’ Locanda Locatelli Auction.