The 2004 Champagne vintage, initially overlooked, has proven to be a remarkable collection of wines that embody finesse and purity over power and intensity. As these wines reach maturity, a tasting conducted by experts Essi Avellan MW, Simon Field MW, and Joanna Simon reveals that the 2004 vintage deserves recognition for its surprising elegance and pristine quality.
The 2004 harvest was notable for the largest yields recorded at the time, following a difficult 2003 season that severely limited grape production due to frost and drought. Consequently, the vines in 2004 were rich with unused sugars that resulted in high yields, with some producers managing these effectively through careful selection and minimal pressing.
Tasting results from the panel reflected an average score of 93, with Joanna Simon achieving the highest average of 94. The tasting encompassed 20 vintage and prestige cuvées, revealing an abundance of high-quality wines with few disappointments. The cuvées led by Chardonnay showcased notable success, with standout performances from the Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne.
The tasting highlighted some intriguing comparisons regarding disgorgements. For instance, a Lanson from 2012 was preferred over its 2023 counterpart, emphasizing that the quality can vary significantly by release timing. Notably, many producers opted to vintage their 2004 wines, which has proven beneficial as the quality has consistently surprised tasters.
Despite initial projections of dilution due to high yields, the characteristics of the best wines from 2004 exhibit a ballerina-like lightness and vivaciousness that stand out in today’s market. The panel noted that while these wines may not be the most monumental or structured, their delicacy and refinement are exceptional attributes.
Simon Field MW remarked on how this vintage, though initially undervalued, marries quantity and quality effectively. Joanna Simon expressed high expectations, feeling they were met but slightly tempered by what appeared to be a plateau in flavor evolution across many cuvées.
The tasting showcased exceptional wines like:
- Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 2004: Scored 96, noted for its refined nose and beautifully silky palate.
- Pommery Cuvée Louise 2004: Also scored 96, praised for its youthful nose and elegant finish.
- Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2004: Scored 96, highlighted for its intense flavors and energetic bubbles.
Overall, the 2004 Champagne vintage is gaining the appreciation it deserves, showcasing a growth in complexity and maturity that offers fine drinking experiences today, with many cuvées continuing to evolve positively for years to come.
For more information, explore the following links: