Unlocking the Secrets of Nikka Whisky: An Exclusive Interview with Diego Araud

By | 19 October 2024

Those who appreciate Japanese whisky are likely familiar with Nikka, a distinguished and historically significant distillery in Japan.

Established in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, whose inspiration came from Scotch whisky, Nikka has devoted 90 years to honing its expertise. At the upcoming Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) in Singapore, Diego Araud, the director of La Maison du Whisky, will conduct a tasting featuring five distinct Nikka offerings, highlighting the distillery’s creative advancements.

In this context, Ch’ng Poh Tiong engages with Araud in anticipation of his participation in DFWE.

There are several factors behind the remarkable rise of Japanese whisky over the last 15 years. It’s important to note that Japanese whisky is not a recent phenomenon; it has been part of the landscape for nearly a century. This year marks the 90th anniversary of Nikka Whisky, and we are reflecting on the rich history of this exceptional producer.

Surprisingly, the craft of whisky-making is far older than many realize. While it has gained immense popularity over the past decade or two, this success is a result of whisky’s remarkable performance on a global scale during this time. Although American whiskey has taken a bit longer to catch on, it has seen significant growth in recent years. Meanwhile, Irish whiskey has also made a return, contributing to a vibrant period for this beloved spirit.

As whisky began to gain international recognition, we witnessed numerous whiskies entering competitions and earning prestigious awards. These products were crafted with great care by individuals dedicated to quality, imbued with a refined subtlety. The producers emphasized achieving a harmonious balance and demonstrated exceptional blending skills, resulting in exquisite expressions. Eventually, the world stumbled upon these high-quality offerings that had previously gone unnoticed. Just a couple of years ago, there were jokes about whisky production being exclusive to Scotland or Ireland, yet now the conversation has shifted—have you experienced Japanese whisky? It has been recognized as some of the finest in the world, bolstered by strategic marketing efforts. The brand Hibiki notably gained attention after its appearance in the film Lost in Translation.

Similarly, the story of Nikka surged in popularity alongside a television show in Japan about Masataka Taketsuru’s life. This exposure propelled Nikka’s recognition in Japan right as it was capturing the interest of audiences abroad. Consequently, whisky consumption surged while stocks dwindled. Over the past two decades, the globalization of Japanese culture has solidified its cult status. While this phenomenon may not be as pronounced in regions like Singapore, it has certainly been evident in places like France, where Japan remains a source of fascination.

It can be said that Japanese whisky closely resembles Scotch whisky, as it adheres to comparable guidelines that define Scotch. The base ingredients and production methods are strikingly alike, and the maturation process follows the same principles. Both types of whisky are bound by similar regulations.

When conducting a blind taste test between a Japanese whisky and a Scotch whisky, discerning their origins proves to be quite challenging. This situation is not unique to just these two categories; rather, it reflects a broader spectrum where, provided the style remains consistent—such as in the case of single malts—it becomes increasingly difficult to identify where the whisky comes from. Occasionally, certain expressions may hint at a particular producer’s influence, but overall, telling them apart is quite tricky. In essence, both Japanese and Scotch whiskies are created through similar methods and ingredients. A notable figure in the realm of Japanese whisky is Masataka Taketsuru, whose journey we will explore during the masterclass. His expertise originated from his time in Scotland, where he mastered the art of whisky production.

His aim was to craft a whisky akin to Scotch; however, distinct differences do exist.

The Japanese approach to whisky-making is characterized by a pursuit of perfection and an unwavering quest for the ideal balance. By the time they delved into whisky production, they were already in a modern era—one that featured scientific advancements alongside Taketsuru. This meant they possessed a deep understanding of the components that contribute to whisky, allowing them to create the finest possible product.

In time, they truly mastered the art of whisky-making, discovering the perfect balance, the ideal alcohol content, and the perfect blend of flavors. Their culinary culture contributes to their well-developed palate, allowing them to delve into the intricate details to find the expression that resonates best with them. However, taste remains highly subjective. This subjectivity is partly why Suntory and Nikka took different paths. Masataka Taketsuru aimed to preserve a more Scottish style—something richer, stronger, and oilier. In contrast, Tori-san aspired to create a whisky that was lighter, more floral, and more suitable for the Japanese palate. Overall, Japanese whisky has garnered a reputation for being exceptionally balanced, lighter, and more nuanced.

I hope this discussion will foster a greater appreciation for Nikka’s rich history; that is our primary focus. Additionally, I wish to shed light on the wider whisky landscape. For true enthusiasts, there will be numerous subtleties to explore. However, for those from the wine sector who might perceive whisky as a singular entity, they may find that it opens up into countless fascinating narratives—each influenced by raw materials, production techniques, and the aging process, all of which shape the final product. In addition to discussing Nikka, we will engage in a broader conversation about whisky itself.

Furthermore, there will be a special surprise in this masterclass—something exclusive that I believe few have encountered before. It promises to be incredibly valuable.

Watch: A Message from Diego Araud

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore

Date: Saturday, 26 October 2024 from 11am to 5:30pm

Location: 22 Orange Grove Road, Singapore 258350

Price: Grand Tasting tickets SGD 165 | Masterclass tickets SGD 167 – SGD 600

All prices are subject to 9% government tax.

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